Rio de Janeiro

A Week in Rio

Rio de Janeiro is a vibrant and magical Brazilian city known for its energetic atmosphere, famed white sand beaches, jungelous hiking trails, breathtaking landscapes, sprawling favelas and all night samba parties. We spent a week in Rio, explored the city by neighborhood, getting a feeling for each one’s character, sights and beaches.

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is a hilly neighborhood with winding cobble stone streets, scenic viewpoints overlooking neighboring favelas, a restored tram, colorful street murals, and Brazilian restaurants.

Santa Teresa Tram.  A historic yellow tram that rides through the Santa Teresa neighborhood past its landmarks and sights, making quick stops at stations along the way. We took the tram from the main station near the Metropolitan Cathedral into the neighborhood to the top of the hill. From here, we hopped off and walked back down, exploring the neighborhood on foot.

Good to Know:  Purchase tram tickets at the station at 9am to avoid the crowds.

Largo dos Guimarães.  The small central plaza in Santa Teresa with a tram station and a street with several cute cafes, vintage style restaurants and Brazilian shops.

Casanossa.  A beautiful restaurant along the Santa Teresa tram route with a multilevel outdoor courtyard under the dappled lighting of trees with views of the hilltop architecture. We came here for lunch, ordering the bohlinos de bacalau, ceviche and a cold Brazilian beer. 

Urca

Urca is neighborhood at the base of the Sugarloaf Mountain. The residential are around the mountain has views of the harbor, beautiful small beaches, tree lined streets with flowering plants, German style houses, VW Beetles and a historic military base.

Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain).  An iconic granite mountain with panoramic views of Rio, the harbor and ocean. We took the cable car up to smaller Urca Mountain then to Sugarloaf Mountain. From the summit of each, we overlooked the city from all angles, watched airplanes fly closely overheard and spotted people climbing the sheer granite cliffs. The smaller mountain has a garden with nature trails where spotted a tiny monkey climbing in a tree. Both mountains have numerous cafes, restaurants, food stands, bars and shops at their summits. While taking in the views, we ordered a coffee and brigadero, a Brazilian truffle.

Good to Know:  Only go on a clear and sunny day. We purchased our tickets online ahead of time for the 9am entry to beat the crowds. Book here!

Praia Vermelha (Red Beach).  A small beach named after its red hued sand at the base of the Sugarloaf Mountain. Come here to listen to the waves crash while relaxing in a beach chair under an umbrella with a fresh coconut. 

Maria Açaí.  A local restaurant chain for sweetened cups of açaí with a range of toppings like coconut, granola and nuts.

Copacabana Beach

Copacabana is a famous for its yellow sand beach lined with colorful umbrellas and thousands of people relaxing under the Brazilian sun. At Borrachas (beach tents), vendors rent lounge chairs and umbrellas, sell coconuts,  tropical cocktails and beverages. Food vendors walk the beach pushing carts with boiled corn, carry portable grills with smoked cheese and trays of skewered shrimp while others sell cigarettes & drugs.

All kinds of people visit Copacabana Beach. Vendors fly dozens flags as welcoming symbols to attract foreign tourists, sports fans, gays and other Brazilians. There’s not a specific gay section though most gays congregate anywhere around the large and numerous rainbow flags. It can be a sporty spot, we watched as guys played competitive games of foot volley and others jogged by shirtless along the promenade as we sipped on caipirinhas. 

Atlantic Promenade.  The black and white tiled promenade is lined with beachside restaurants and bars. We walked along its entire length, taking advantage of the 2 for $R20 caipirinhas ($3.50 USD). Across the street, along Atlantic Avenue, skyscrapers, upscale restaurants, hotels and residences provide a metropolitan feeling to the beachy atmosphere. There’s no bad spot along Copacabana Beach but the best views are from the west looking towards Sugarloaf Mountain.

Joaquina Restaurant.  A restaurant in Copacabana with contemporary versions of classic Brazilian dishes and cocktails made with Brazilian fruits and syrups. We ordered the tapioca breaded shrimp with passion fruit mango sauce and the seafood moqueca made with dorado, plantain, farina and a thick fish broth. 

Ipanema Beach

Ipanema is known for its iconic yellow sand beach similar in many regards to Copacabana. It’s popular for swimming, surfing, foot volley and sunsets with over 100 brarrachas selling drinks, snacks and beachwear. The gays like to congregate between Barrachas 57-64. Its tiled promenade is routinely used for walking, jogging and biking and admiring the elegant architecture. The best views are looking west towards Morro Dois Irmãos.

Arpoador Rock. A rocky outcrop with trails overlooking Ipanema Beach. It’s a popular spot to watch the sunset and take surf lessons. 

Leblon Beach.  A continuation of Ipanema Beach west of the canal in the wealthiest neighborhood of the city. 

Little Africa

Little Africa is a historic neighborhood home to a large Afro-Brazilian population, many of which are the descendants of enslaved Africans brought to Brazil. Come here to learn about the neighborhood’s history, see the quilombos (favelas), admire the street art and dance to live Samba music.  

Museu da História e da Cultura Afro-Brasileira (MUHCAB).  Located in Little Africa, this museum is dedicated to Afro-Brazilian history and culture with exhibits on African enslavement, to emancipation and modern day. The museum features artwork, sculptures, textiles, artifacts and Samba music. 

Pedra do Sal.  Considered the birthplace of Samba, this historic spot in Rio’s Little Africa is home to a nightly party with live Samba music. Under the cover of a colorful tent, the street has an electric atmosphere with feeling for Favela culture. Music emanates between buildings as people dance in the street and sing along in unison. The street is lined with bar carts serving strong caipirinhas and restaurants selling Brazilian snacks. The party starts at sunset and continues into the early morning with Monday and Friday being the liveliest nights. 

Escada da Bandeira do Brasil.  A small staircase painted in the Brazilian flag at the end of a historic alleyway. 

Vidigal Favela 

Vidigal is a favela built on the side of the Morro Dois Irmaos. It’s the ‘safest’ of the favelas in Rio and welcoming of tourists with guided tours. We visited with a local guide who toured us through the favela, showed us how people live and explained its history with gangs and government “pacification.” 

Vidigal is a densely populated community with narrow winding walkways, steep staircases and unfinished houses built on the hill in very close proximity to each other. The main road through the favela has all the businesses you would typically see in a neighborhood including grocery stores, restaurants, bars, auto shops, churches, laundry mats, a health clinic and post office. The upper area of the favéla has a black market, rooftop bars and outdoor patios overlooking it and Ipanema. We stopped at one for a cold beer while enjoying the view. 

The favela is “pacified” by the police but controlled by the Comando Vermelho gang. Their gang sign, CV, was gratified everywhere in the favela while gang members carrying assault rifles were omnipresent. Though we didn’t feel unsafe, it was good to have a guide helping us navigate through a traditionally unsafe community. 

Morro Dois Irmaos.  A mountain with twin granite peaks known as “The Two Brothers.” The mountain has hiking trails with views of Rio’s largest favela, Rocinha and of Ipanema Beach from the summit.   

We took moto-taxis through the Vidigal Favela to reach the trail head. The trail led up rustic stairs until reaching a view of Rocinha. Along the way, we spotted a family of capuchin monkeys feating on jack fruit in a tree. We hiked even further up the dirt trail until reaching the summit of “Big Brother” where we were fully in the clouds. After waiting around, we got to see glimpses of Ipanema beach through brief clearings. Book here!

El Centro

El Centro is the central neighborhood of Rio is the historic and cultural hub of the city known for its architecture, museums and plazas. We spent time walking around the neighborhood, following the patterns of tiny black and white stones laid into the sidewalks. Narrow cobble stone streets are lined with ornate historic buildings and wide avenues with modern skyscrapers and elegant neo-classical landmarks. 

Museu de Art do Rio.  A contemporary art museum with galleries dedicated to local artists. We visited during their main exhibit on Funk music. The exhibit was laid out in two parts. One related to the historical context of Funk going back to black artists from the 70s. The second, depicting contemporary Funk music in favelas. 

Museu di Amanda (Museum of Tomorrow).  A beautiful, insightful, thought provoking and at times overwhelming museum dedicated to Earth and humanity. Through a series of interactive, descriptive and digital exhibits, the museum builds empathy and connects us as individuals to each other, the planet and our future. 

The museum explains our understanding of the Cosmos and Earth’s place it while highlighting the planet’s natural systems, ecology and biodiversity. Reflecting on humanity, an exhibit depicts what it means to be human and connects different culture’s uniqueness and similarities through photography. Continuing with an exhibit of The Anthropocene and human impacts on the planet through statistics related to overconsumption, population growth, human led degradation and the planet’s inability to keep up. The museum ends, leaving us with a choice of how to move forward as individuals and a civilization. 

Royal Portuguese Reading Room.  A gothic style library with a central atrium surrounded by multiple levels and walls of vertically stacked of antique Portuguese books.

Metropolitan Cathedral.  A brutalist concrete cathedral shaped like a cone with 4 vertical stripes of colorful stained glass meeting at a clear cross in the cathedral’s ceiling. 

Municipal Theater.  An elegant theater with a domed roof, stone exterior, golden statues and bronze moldings. 

Praça Quinze de Novembro.  A plaza in the central neighborhood with stately neoclassical buildings. 

Lapa

Lapa is small but central neighborhood known for its nightlife, street art and the Escadaria Selarón. The neighborhood can be a bit dicy during the daytime and we suspect even more so at nighttime. 

Escadaria Selarón.  A beautiful mosaic tiled staircase in the Lapa neighborhood. It’s a very popular selfie spot with many tourists walking up the stairs and posing for photos. There are vendors selling caipirinhas from their homes. We ordered a large one for R$8, sat on the steps and people watched. At its base is a street lined with bars, restaurants and murals. 

Arcos da Lapa.  A white arched aqueduct converted into part of the Santa Teresa Tram route. There are many homeless people sleeping under the arches. 

Christ The Redeemer

The iconic statue of Christ with his arms outstretched atop of the mountain overlooking Rio. On a clear day, he’s visible from across the city, peaking between skyscrapers and smaller mountains. 

Tremdo Corcovado. A train that goes up the mountain to reach Christ the Redeemer. We booked our tickets a few days ahead of time for 7:20 on a clear morning. The best views of the statue are in the morning light while the best views of the city are in the afternoon. Even in the early morning, the summit was crowded with people taking selfies and admiring the view. Book here!

Botafogo & Flamengo

Botafogo & Flamengo are two adjacent neighborhoods with white sand beaches, cafes, restaurants, bars & hotels.

Botafogo Beach.  A half moon shaped white sand beach with picturesque views of the ship dotted harbor and Sugarloaf Mountain. The water is often non-swimmable due to swim in due to sewage and pollution.

Flamengo Beach.  A lengthy white sand beach with sun-kissed beach goers, vendors selling fresh coconuts, toned people flexing at the outdoor gyms, tournaments of Brazilian foot volley and a park with gardens and cycling paths. 

Av. Infante Don Henrique.  A scenic waterfront trail connecting both Flamengo and Botafogo Beaches with views of the harbor, sugarloaf mountain and Christ redeemer. People come here to take a leisurely stroll, jog, exercise and bike.

Brewteco Botafogo.  A rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking Botafogo Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain. Come here for shareable appetizers like fried tapioca cheese bites and Brazilian beers including their house brewed beers.

Flor de Cactus.  A coffee shop with sandwiches, pastries and locally made goods like honey, dried beans, hot sauce and juice. 

What to Eat and Drink

• Feijoada.  A traditional Brazilian stew made from black beans and multiple meats. It’s commonly served with rice and sliced oranges. We cooked a vegan version of it at our Airbnb. 

• Moqueca.  A traditional Brazilian stew made with fish, shrimp, plantains, coconut milk, tomatoes and spices. 

• Pastel.  A fried or baked squared shaped pastry filled with any number of proteins from meats to cheese.

• Pao de Quejo.  Tasty and addicting Brazilian rolls made with cheese and tapioca flour. They popular everywhere in Brazil and common at breakfast. 

• Queijo Coalho.  A popular Brazilian snack made from skewered cheese grilled over coals, covered in honey and sprinkled with oregano. 

• Bolhinos.  Crispy fried cod fritters. They’re popular as appetizers at restaurants and bars. 

• Brigadeiro.  A Brazilian truffle made from a chocolatey caramel covered in chocolate sprinkles. 

• Pipoca (Popcorn).  The tasty snack is served in food carts across the streets of Rio. Try is served buttered & salted or glazed in caramel.

• Palmito.  Known as heart of palm, it’s common in salads. 

• Açaí.  The tiny Amazonian super fruit from the Açaí palm. By itself, it has a bitter blackberry like flavor. It’s often served as a sorbet with other fruits, granola and honey.

• Coconuts.  Fresh coconuts sold whole and sliced open with a machete are synonymous with Brazil! The refreshing and tasty drinks are served on beaches across Rio for around $R10.

• Caipirinha.  A cocktail made from sliced limes and sugar muddled together shaken with cachaça, a little water and ice. It’s essentially a Brazilian margarita. They’re sold from street vendors, at beaches, bars and restaurants across Rio. 

• Guaraná Antarctica.  A very popular Brazilian soda made from the guaraná fruit. It has a fuzzy cane sugar like flavor. 

• Brazilian Beers.  There are three popular and inexpensive Brazilian beers sold almost everywhere. Brahma which is the most popular followed by Skol and Original. 

Where to Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb overlooking Botafogo Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain. With is views, it was the most dreamy location we could have imagined staying in Rio while giving us beach access to layout under the Brazilian sun. 

Good to Know

• Language.  Portuguese is the national language of Brazil. Even is a city like Rio, very few people speak English. We got by on some basic Portuguese phrases and words combined with some Spanish and Google Translate. 

• LGBTQ+  From rainbow flags at beaches to meeting other Brazilians from across the spectrum, Rio is very welcoming of LGBTQ+ tourists.

• Drinking Water.  The tap water is technically safe to drink in Rio although it has an unpleasant taste, not even boiling water will eliminate the flavor. Unfortunately, we drank mostly bottled water while in Rio. 

• Cash.  Very few places accept cash. The ones that do don’t often have change for larger bills like 50s or 100s.

• Beaches.  The beaches were surprisingly clean across Rio with little to no trash anywhere on shore. 

• Weather.  Though the air temperature was warm, the water was still very cold in the early spring (mid October). 

• Getting Around. Ubers and yellow taxis are plentiful & inexpensive to get around the city as well as the airport. 

Safety

• Be Aware.  Despite everyone’s warning, we felt very safe in Rio. Like in most cities, we were aware of our surroundings, kept our phones and wallets in our front pockets, double checked directions and use instincts before walking down a street. 

• Avoiding Favelas.  Favelas are notoriously dangerous due to the high risk of violent crime and best avoided. Even on a guided tour like we took in Vidigal, our safety couldn’t be guaranteed.

• We used the satellite view on our maps app to determine if an area may be a favela. Generally, high density areas with tin roofs and no defined streets are favelas. Areas with clay tiled roofs, skyscrapers with streets are generally safer neighborhoods.

• The north side of the city between the international airport and El Centro should be avoided. This is the most dangerous region with several favelas. 

• Beaches.  To avoid theft on the beaches, we kept our valuables out of reach of anyone passing by. People mentioned not to visit the beaches at night however we didn’t see any issues. Most beaches including Copacabana, Ipanema and Botafogo are well lit and well utilized at night. 

For Next Time… 

Having caught a cold during our week in Rio, it limited our ability to do and see everything we had hoped. Luckily, Rio is now near the top of our list of places to return to. For next time, we plan to:

• Take Surf Lessons at Amador or Grumari beaches.

• Go on a boat tour of the Cargarras Islands, a protected nature reserve off the coast of Rio. 

• Hike to the summit of Piedra Bonita, one of the city’s tallest granite peaks.

• Visit during Carnival, the world’s largest party with parades, music festivals & feathered dancers.

Suriname

Suriname

Suriname is a country in the north east of South America with a Dutch colonial past, vast rainforest and melting pot of cultural influences. We spent over a week exploring is capital city, Paramaribo as well as the Amazon region deep within the interior of the country. 

Paramaribo

Paramaribo is the Dutch Colonial capital of Suriname, also called “the wooden city” for its dutch style wooden houses and buildings. It’s home to markets, former plantations and museums. It’s the perfect starting point to venture to the interior of the country or along the coast to nature reserves and the neighboring counties.

Neighborhoods & Streets 

Combe.  A neighborhood at the heart of Paramaribo with many historical sights, markets, restaurants & bars, hotels & hostels. 

Van Sommelsdijck Street.  A street with restaurants and various cuisines including Indian, Italian, Indonesian, Mediterranean and Japanese. 

Jessurunstraat.  A street with Dutch style houses, cafes, small inns and hostels, including the one we stayed at.

Sights 

Fort Zelandia.  A historic waterfront fort with a hexagonal stone wall, brick courtyard and buildings within. Outside of its walls is the old town with multiple Dutch colonial wooden houses, cannons, and tall trees. 

The fort houses the Suriname Museum, with exhibits telling the history of Suriname from its colonial past to independence with artifacts from enslaved Africans, the Maroon people and Pre-Colombia cultures. 

On the ground floor of the fort is, Baka Foto, a refined feeling restaurant and bar with a garden overlooking river. After touring the fort, we stopped in to sip on Borgoe, a Surinamese rum. It had the sweet spiciness of a rum and flavor of a cognac. 

Waterkant Boulevard.  A waterfront park on the Suriname River with historic Dutch colonial buildings. When we visited, the park was closed for a lengthy renovation. Even so, we got to admire the architecture characterized by its white painted wooden facades, tiled roofs, green window and door moldings and red brick foundation.

Independence Square.  A gravel plaza surrounded by Suriname’s government buildings including the Presidential Palace, House of Justice, National Assembly and Ministry of Finance. 

Presidential Palace.  A large wooden Dutch style mansion home to Suriname’s presidency. 

Palmentuin.  The presidential palm garden with hundreds of towering palm trees, walkways and monuments. Come here to listen to the birds chirping and singing. 

Religious Sights.  Suriname is proud of its cultural diversity, a fact that is evident by their various sights of worship including churches, mosques and Hindu temples across the city. 

• St Peter & Paul Cathedral.  A large wooden basilica with a painted blue, yellow and peach colored facade decorated in Dutch style moldings. 

• Arya Dewaker.  A large Hindu temple with a domed temple hall and Dutch style influences like its symmetrical design and paned windows. 

• Mosque Keizerstraat.  A large beautifully designed mosque with four minarets and a central domed hall. 

• Nevah Shalom Synagogue.  A Dutch style wooden temple with a symmetrical design, white facade, paned windows and tall columns.

Peper Pot Nature Park.  Across from Paramaribo on the other side of the Suriname River are many former sugar cane and coffee plantations, since converted into farmland, nature reserves and residential neighborhoods. 

We visited Peper Pot, a nature park with lush trails and dirt roadways for walking and biking. Along the trails, we spotted families of squirrel and capuchin monkeys, rainbow lizards, yellow breasted corn birds and scarlet peacock butterflies. Pepper Pot continued to produce coffee through the mid 1990s. Since then the former Dutch colonial plantation buildings have been converted into a boutique hotel with a restaurant and pool. 

Markets

Maroon Market.  A market with Maroon women selling organic and handmade items from the Surinamese Amazon. Across the tables of the dimly lit shed are jars with colorful feathers, stacked turtle shells, rams horns, large bunches of leaves used for washing with, oils for skin and hair care, pieces of bark and dried tree sap for burning as incense, wood and root used for medicinal purposes, cassava flower and spices. The women here are friendly and spoke with us about what several items were and how they’re used. Other vendors sell beautifully woven baskets, painted clay pots, bowls carved out of gourds and beaded necklaces. 

Central Market.  A large market with vendors selling local produce, fish (fresh, smoked and salted), meats, live chicken, herbs, spices, oils, sauces, dried noodles, rices, cassava and plantain chips. We spent over an hour walking from table to table inspecting the exotic fruits, bunches of herbs and carefully stacked arrangements of vegetables before returning to buy groceries to prepare our own meals. 

For breakfasts, we ate Amazon fruits. For one dinner, we cooked Heri Heri, Suriname’s national dish. The dish is made with an assortment of boiled vegetables including cassava, white sweet potato, potato, yellow plantain and green plantain served with fried salted cod, yardlong beans and a hard boiled egg. 

Exotic Vegetables

• Yardlong Beans.  Very long thin strands of green bumpy beans. 

• Antroewa.  A small round and green eggplant.

• Sopropo.  A bitter melon that has to be cooked. It looks like a bumpy cucumber. 

• White Sweet Potatoes.  Small potatoes with a brown skin, white interior and sweet savory flavor. 

• Kaisoi.  A large leafy green similar to spinach. 

Exotic Fruits

• Pommerak.  A tasty deep pink pear shaped fruit with sweet and starchy flavor. Can bite right into it.

• Rose Apple.  A tiny pinkish red pear shaped fruit that tastes slightly sweet and floral. Can bite right into it.

• Star Apple.  A fruit similar in flavor to a lychee with the exterior of a passion fruit. Cut in half & spoon out the fruit.

• Pomelo.  A giant grapefruit with a light and refreshing flavor. The strands of fruit easily pull out of each slice. 

Other more commonly known vegetables and fruits sold at the market are plantains, okra, turmeric, cassava, squash, oranges and watermelon.

Deserts 

• Boyo.  A semi sweet cake with a gelatinous spongy texture made from cassava and coconut. 

• Fiadu.  A sweet cake made with raisins, currants, almonds and citrus. 

Drinks

• Parbo Bier.  A classic Pilsner brewed in Paramaribo. 

• Parbo Bier Chiller Lime.  A refreshing local beer with flavors of lime and passion fruit.

Fruit Stands.  There are colorful and fragrant fruit stands around the outer roads of Paramaribo. We stopped at one for a fresh coconut, mango and pineapple for breakfast. 

Waka Pasi.  An outdoor market along the canal behind the Palmentuin with cocktail bars, cafes, ice cream shops, souvenir stands, a tourist desk and vendors selling fried foods.

Where to Eat & Drink 

Raja Ji.  An Indian restaurant with a wide range of vegetarian dishes cooked in savory sauces and warm spices. 

Souposo.  A cafe with Surinamese soups. Try the Peanut Soup made from peanuts, plantain, spices and smoked fish. Or try the Saoto Soup, a savory vegetable soup with greens, spices, bean sprouts and ramen noodles.

Tangelo.  A cafe with strong coffee, artesian pastries, fruit forward breakfast dishes and savory bites with Indian spices. Try the Aloo Gobhi Pita with spiced cauliflower, potato and chickpeas. 

Sweetie Coffee Suriname.  A cafe at the Waka Pasi market with shaded seating, coffee, water, beers and homemade cakes.

Coffee Mama.  A cafe in a Dutch colonial house with a cozy backyard. Come here for the coffee, Surinamese, Caribbean and Brazilian snacks, breakfast and lunch dishes. 

The Surinamese Amazon

With its lush jungles, flowing by rivers and immense biodiversity, Suriname resides firmly in the Amazon Basin with over 90% of its landmass covered by rainforest. We traveled into this region and spent 4 days at the Anaula Nature Reserve.

Anaula Nature Reserve 

Anaula is an eco-resort on an island in the Suriname River with jungle bungalows, nature trails, natural river pools, cultural activities and prepared local dishes. We spent our time relaxing in nature, exploring the Amazon and experiencing the local culture through tours and cuisine. 

Day One

Day one was all about the journey and exploring the eco resort. 

Getting Here

From Paramaribo, we took a 4 hour bus ride towards the interior of the country until reaching the port of Atjoni on the Suriname River. At this point, the only method of transportation further into the country is by motorized dugout canoe.

As we waited for our captain, guides tossed our bags onto a canoe ferrying everything from luggage, bulk groceries, small appliances, large propane tanks and corrugated metal. Once on the river, we glided through the brown water and looked upon the lush tree lined banks, passing several Maroon villages, locals swimming in natural river pools and washing clothes. The captain skillfully weaved the long canoe past rocks, sand bars and oncoming boats. 

Towards the end of the journey, we passed through The Jaw Jaw Rapids, a notoriously turbulent section of the river. The captain sped the boat up the rapids through a narrow passageway where we hit and bounced off a rock but were redirected by several men waiting to steer us back on course. Once successfully passing through, the others re-boarded the boat and we continued the journey, docking at Anaula after a total 1 hour and 15 min canoe ride. 

Arrival at Anaula 

The resort has beautiful wooden bungalows and open air amenities like a dining hall where meals are served, a lobby with wooden lounge furniture, a relaxing outdoor pool and river overlooks with hammocks. 

The beautiful property is built on an island, surrounded by lush Amazonian trees and views of the rapids. We used down time to wade in the surprisingly warm shallow river pools, bird watch and stargaze upon the Milky Way. In the middle of the night a strong rainstorm provided white noise as we drifted asleep. 

Day Two 

Day two was all about exploring the island’s nature and wildlife. 

Waking up in the Amazon

The noises of the rainforest, birds chirping, frogs croaking and cicadas humming all around our bungalow provided a fitting wake up call for our second day in the Amazon. At breakfast, our guide found a tarantula in the palm trees and placed it on us. The furry spider slowly crawled on our arms, applying subtle pressure as its tiny feet climbed.  

Hiking the Amazon

We began our hike along the perimeter trail of the island, walking through dense primary forest with hundred year old trees and newly grown foliage. Along the way, our guide taught us Amazon survival skills including how to call for help if lost, snake warning signs and to learn from the monkeys to know what’s safe to eat. 

Among the sounds of the rainforest, we heard some squeaks in the canopy and spotted a group of curious capuchin monkeys. Knowing we may have had food, the cute monkeys paid us a visit. We fed them pieces of banana which they quickly snatched from our hands while some even jumped onto our shoulder, wrapping their furry tails around our arms. 

Nighttime Caiman Tour 

As night fell, we took a canoe tour downriver to spot caiman under the stars. We shined a bright light towards the river bank, looking for the reflection of the caiman’s eyes. After several minutes, we caught an amber glow reflecting back. Our guide approached the small caiman and snatched it out of the water for everyone to see up close. After releasing it, we canoed further down river spotting one more, twice as large as the first, before returning back to Anaula. 

Day 3

Day three was all about the local culture and more relaxation.

The Village Walk 

We visited the Village of Ladoani further up the Suriname River. The village is home to the Saamaka, 1 of the 6 Maroon people in the country. The Maroon people are the descendants of enslaved Africans brought to Suriname who have lived upriver for generations. Traveling by canoe, on foot and then by canoe again, we reached the village of nearly 3,000 people. 

During our guided village walk, we learned about the village, its people, culture, language and history. The village is comprised of wooden plank houses with tin roofs and dirt pathways, a hospital, school, church and at least two mini marts. Trees producing papaya, coconut, banana, star apple, mango, cashew and breadfruit flourish here while gardens with okra and cassava grow outside of peoples’ homes.

It’s quiet during the day. The men have left to harvest crops, hunt within the jungle and fish further up river. The elders, women, children and young men remain with jobs of their own. Women harvest leaves for bathing, grind cassava to bake bread, wash laundry in the river and roast palm seeds to produce oil. Children play together, learn at school, empty rainwater from canoes and show off their pet parrots while younger men mix concrete to build foundations for new homes.

Relaxation Mode 

After retuning for lunch, we spent the remainder of the afternoon napping in hammocks by the river, watching canoes navigate upstream, listening to the flow of the rapids, hum of cicadas and chirping birds. Towards the late afternoon, we migrated to the pool for a snack and a local beer.

Saamaka Performance

After dinner on our final night, we were treated to a cultural dance performance by drummers and dancers from the Ladoani Village. They performed several songs and dances that originated during the plantation era when enslaved Africans would use the performances to distract their oppressors while others escaped. Since then, the Saamaka have continued these performances but for reasons of joy and happiness. 

Day 4 

Day four involved a relaxing morning in nature before returning to Paramaribo. 

The Last Morning At Anaula 

We woke up early to listen to the birds as the sun rose followed by a nature walk where we spotted the same family as monkeys from day two. They were feasting on the fruit and nuts of a palm tree near the river. In the early afternoon, we began our scenic and exciting boat ride back to Atjoni where we boarded the bus returning to Paramaribo. 

The Cuisine at Anaula 

Over the four days at Anaula, we got to taste many Surinamese dishes cooked by the Maroon people as well as dishes brought to Suriname by its culturally diverse population of Indians, Indonesians and Dutch. The kitchen prepared 3 buffet meals a day, a mid afternoon snack and accommodated our pescatarian preference. 

• Fresh Fruit: Pomelo, watermelon, papaya & banana 

• Poffertjes: Tiny Dutch pancakes 

• Roti: Flat bread served with masala eggs, curried potatoes, pureed squash, sautéed eggplant and rice.

• Pakabana:  Sliced, battered and fried plantains.

• Witi Fis:  Fried white fish.

• Salt Fish:  Salted and shredded cod. 

• Menu Vada.  A savory dough flavored with spices and shaped into a donuts. 

• Nasi.  A mixed rice dish, influenced by Indonesian and Chinese cuisine. It can be served with vegetables or meats.

• Surinamese Vegetables and Greens: 

• Sautéed antroewa (white eggplant) and soproro (bitter melon)

• Steamed yardlong beans

• Boiled white sweet potatoes & cassava 

• Blanched Kaisoi (a type of spinach)

• Okra Soup, cooked with okra and greens 

Where to Stay

In Paramaribo, we stayed in a private room at the Twenty4 Hostel. The hostel has communal areas like a reception, kitchen and back patio. They offer simple breakfasts, luggage storage, taxi services and can arrange tours across the country. 

Good to Know

• Language:  Dutch, English, Sranan Tongo and several Maroon languages are commonly spoken.

• Currency: Uses the Suriname Dollar. Cash is preferred over credit card. 

• Credit Cards:  Visa is not accepted anywhere. Mastercard is accepted. There is typically a 5% credit card fee.

• Tipping: 10% is customary 

• Drinking Water:  Tap water is not safe for consumption unless rapidly boiled for at least one minute. Avoid ice as it’s often frozen tap water. 

• Climate:  Paramaribo is hot and dry during September to October. Make sure to drink plenty of water. 

• Insects: When in the interior of the country, wear long socks and insect repellant to avoid bites, especially at night time or after the rain. 

• Driving:  People drive on the left side of the road. Cars have their steering wheels on the right side of the car. Speed limits and milage are in km. 

• LGBTQ+: Though there are some restrictions one LGBTQ+ rights, October is the unofficial Pride month. We saw rainbow and progress flags at embassies, large hotels and WHO buildings. 

• Visas:  We needed to apply for an E-Visa a minimum of 72 hours before visiting Suriname and pay a $59 fee. 

Getting Around

Airport Taxi:  The airport is located a little over an hour from Paramaribo. Taxis typically cost $50 one way.

On Foot:  The city center near most sights is easily walkable. 

For Next Time… 

One thing we learned in Suriname is that 9 days is hardly enough time. Next time we return, we hope to see more of the interior, coast and even the neighboring countries of Guyana and French Guiana.

• Raleighvallen.  A scenic and long cascading waterfall deep in the interior. 

• Voltzberg Dome.  A 240 meter granite dome in the middle of the interior. From what we read, it takes two days to reach but has incredible views overlooking the jungle. 

Panama City

Panama

Panama is a Central American country at the crossroads of North and South America. It’s home to Caribbean beaches, Pacific marine reserves, lush rain forests, an urban metropolis, the Panama Canal and a diversity of cultural backgrounds.

Panama City

Panama City is a sprawling city on the Pacific side of the country with towering skyscrapers, colonial architecture and historic ruins. It’s a starting point to reach many of the country’s nature reserves, and hub for other destinations across Central and South America. 

Casco Viejo 

Panama City’s old town is a beautiful colonial era neighborhood built on a peninsula overlooking the Panama Bay with walled sections, seafood restaurants, rooftop bars, clothing shops, lush plazas, free museums, beautiful cathedrals and cultural sights. 

Elegant Architecture 

Walking down the narrow brick streets with the rails of the old street cars still visible feels like stepping through a time capsule. The elegant architecture is akin to the historic neighborhoods of Madrid with ornate facades painted in muted neutrals and pops of color, thin balconies decorated with tropical plants, warmly lit antique lanterns and clay tiled roofs. Some buildings have been well preserved while others juxtapose them as ruins now overtaken by nature. 

Sights 

Plaza Herrera.  A romantic and scenic plaza surrounded by elegant architecture, luxury hotels, boutiques and restaurants. 

Plaza de la Catedral.  A brick paved plaza in the center of Casco Viejo with a gazebo, trees and park benches. It’s flanked by the La Catedral de Panama, colonial architecture and museums. Artists often come here in the early morning with sketchbooks to draw the sights around the plaza. 

La Catedral de Panama.  The city’s main cathedral built with an ornate stone facade, large wooden door and two white bell towers. 

Cintra Costera.  A road and walkway several miles along the coast from the modern financial center to the old town of Casco Viejo with city views.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.  The stone and brick ruins of a former church. All that remains is the crumbling facade, walls and interior courtyard

Convento de Santo Domingo.  The crumbling brick ruins of a historic convent and church with an adjacent chapel hosing a museum of religious artifacts. 

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced.  A stone facade cathedral with two simplistic white bell and clocktowers. We passed by here when the bells were in full swing letting out dongs heard across the old town. 

Paseo de las Bovedas.  A scenic waterfront walkway along the colonial wall in Casco Viejo. There is a monument dedicated to the history of Panama, views of the modern city and a floral covered walkway with vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs. 

Corridor La Quince.  An arts district outside of Casco Viejo with graffiti and murals covering the buildings & string lights draping the streets. Many of the colonial buildings are in disrepair while others have been renovated to modern standards. 

Plaza Carlos V.  A small garden plaza overlooking the Panama Bay dedicated to one of the first Spanish rulers of Panama credited with the idea of creating the Panama Canal. Guna women often sell their Molas and other handcrafted products from here.

Plaza Medio Baluarte.  A small but photogenic plaza with colorful colonial buildings, a central fountain and an overlook along the wall. We watched as artists painted the city scenery early one morning. 

Plaza Simón Bolívar.  A plaza with a large monument dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the leader who lead several Central and South American countries to independence from Spain. The plaza is flanked by a cathedral and restaurants.

Amador Causeway.  A palm lined road and walkway connecting three islands near the mouth of the Panama Canal. Come here to walk the scenic 3km road, watch ship waiting to enter the Panama Canal and admire views of the city skyline. Along the road are bike rentals, restrooms, overlooks and historical placards. Towards the islands are numerous restaurants, hotels, a marina and cruise terminal. 

Miraflores Visitor Center.  A lock system and lookout on the Panama Canal. Come watch ships pass through, learn about the canal’s history and watch a movie about it narrated by Morgan Freeman. 

• Good to Know: Plan your visit around when ships pass through the locks. Not knowing that ships pass through at infrequent times, the next one wasn’t for over 3 hours when we visited. 

• Getting Here: The visitor center is reachable by bus from Albrook Station or taxi. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo by bus or 20min by car.

Museums 

Panama Viejo.  An archeological park with the crumbling brick and stone ruins of the original colonial Panama City. The city had many houses, multiple churches, roads, a grand plaza, market, cistern, bridge and tall bell tower. It was left to ruin after a major earthquake, multiple fires and pirate attacks. Come here to climb the 116 step tower with lookouts over the ruins, modern day skyline and Pacific Ocean. The view offers a unique contrast to the bustling city surrounding it.

Museo de la Mola.  A museum dedicated to the colorful and intricately patterned textiles made by Panama’s indigenous Guna Women. The well curated exhibit explains the cultural importance of the women and their textiles, how they’re handcrafted and the stories behind them. It also features an interactive sound and light exhibit, an origami station and a magnetic wall to add to the museum’s Mola. The museum is free to enter. 

Museo de la Historia.  A small history museum in Casco Viejo about the founding of Panama and its independence from Spain and Colombia, the diverse cultures that make up Panama and the history of the Panama Canal. Come to see one of Panama’s first ever flags, a constitutional manuscript, and the national anthem. It’s free to enter. 

Mi Pueblito.  An open air museum set up like small towns with reproductions of colonial buildings and a nature trail with reproductions of thatched structures from Panama’s indigenous tribes. When we visited, there were many food vendors set up selling local and local dishes and snacks. 

Parks

Parque Natural Metropolitano.  A tropical nature park with hiking trails and scenic overlooks of Panama City’s skyline. Come here to spot monkeys, sloths, agoutis and humming birds. We spent over 3 hours walking the trails and spotting wildlife through our binoculars. 

Trails  

• El Roble. A 0.7km trail and road leading from the visitor center to the Mono Titi trail 

• Camino de Mono Titi.  A 1.2km trail through the forest ending with views of Panama City’s skyline. 

• La Cienaguita.  A 1.1km trail through the lush forest leading from end of the Mono Titi trail back to the El Roble trail.  

• Los Caobos.  A 0.8km trail branding off of the El Roble trail and ending at the Visitor Center. This trail passed through dense forest where we spotted monkeys, a sloth and agouti. 

• Getting Here: The park is reachable by bus one stop on the bus from Albrook Station. It can take a little over an hour to reach from Casco Viejo.

Cerro Ancon.  A paved nature trail leading from Mi Pueblito to the city’s tallest natural point. Come here to overlook Casco Viejo, the city’s modern skyscrapers and ships passing through the Panama Canal. 

Soberania National Park.  A large national park in the center of the country located along the Panama Canal. We came here hoping to hike, spot wildlife and watch ships on the Canal. 

Unfortunately after hours of trying to reach certain sights in the park via bus, on foot and Uber, we learned many of the park’s activities are run by private resorts with high ticket prices, require advance reservation or are inaccessible. Tired and a little defeated, we decided to return to Panama City and make the most of our day. 

Markets 

Mercado San Felipe Neri.  A food market with butchers selling locally farmed meats and vendors selling locally grown produce, fruits, eggs, grains, herbs, oils and juices. We shopped for a week’s worth of groceries to cook with at our Airbnb. 

Mercado de Mariscos.  A seafood market with vendor selling piles of whole fish on ice, trays of shrimp, live crab and lobster, queen conch and mixed seafood. We bought a 2 lb Corvina, Panama’s favorite fish, and fried it in traditional methods. Opposite of the market is a second building with restaurants and vendors cooking up the day’s fresh catch. Here we ordered Caribbean shrimp, coconut rice and locals beers from Restaurante Allison.

Avienda Central.  A pedestrian street stretching from Cinco de Mayo station to Casco Viejo  with commercial shops, grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling produce, especially plantains stacked on tables and pineapples in the backs of trucks. 

Where to Eat & Drink 

Casco Mar.  A restaurant along the seaside of Casco Viejo with a Spanish style tapas and paella menu. We sat outside listening to the waves and sounds of the city. To eat, we shared the plantains, passion fruit ceviche, white fish stuffed peppers, coconut flan and the most refreshing mojitos. 

El Santuario.  A very romantic and higher end restaurant built within the ruins of a former monetary. The interior is defined by its exposed stone walls, brick arches, high ceilings, terracotta tiled and patterned wood floors. The menu specializes in Panamanian and Spanish dishes. We shared a seafood paella with scallops, langoustine, mussels and calamari. To drink, we each ordered a glass of red sangria.  

Snack Shack.  A beautiful restaurant in Casco Viejo. W ordered a breakfast bowl of tropical fruits (mango, pineapple, banana and papaya) with a coconut cream sauce as well as a traditional breakfast with fried eggs, toast, potatoes and avocado. There is a Tiki Bar in the garden area at the back of the restaurant. 

Café Unido Casco Viejo.  An old town coffee shop and cafe with Panama grown and roasted beans. 

Vista Corona Panama.  A tropical rooftop restaurant and bar with palm trees, tiki torches, house music, a bar built from a VW bettle and views of the old towns rooftops and spires. We came here to relax with a cocktail after a long day of hiking and busing. Try the rum cocktails like an Old Cuban and Tobaga.

Tantalo Rooftop Bar.  A rooftop bar in Casco Viejo with cocktails and local beers. We came here for sunset drinks overlooking the city’s terracotta roofs, cathedral towers and modern skyscrapers across the bay. Fittingly, we ordered a drink called, Noche en el Casco (Night in The Old Town). 

Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar.  A warmly lit rum bar with a wooden interior and old world charm. The bar features rums from countries across the Caribbean and Central America including Panama and their own distillations. Try a glass neat, order a flight of rums, a classic cocktail or

VIP.  A boutique and juice bar connected to Monos con Arte. Order a fresh Pepa Fria (cold coconut) to enjoy while walking around the old town. 

Where to Shop 

Casco Viejo is a very fashionable place with well dressed locals and tourists, boutiques and clothing shops selling Panama hats, linen clothes, colorful outfits and items made with tropical patterns and natural materials. 

Boho Shack.  A resort style street wear boutique with patterned shirts, shorts and pants. We bought a palm embroidered linen shirt! We’ve also visited their location in Cartagena where the brand is based. 

Bellezas de Panama.  A shop selling Panama hats, hand woven Molas and various souvenirs. We found this location to have the best selection and most affordable authentic Panama hats. The typical price is $40-$45 but the shop owner sold ours to us for $30. 

Mansion Herrera Clothing Shop.  A boutique clothing shop with elegant linen clothes and custom Panama Hats. 

Lu Maca Coffee Shop & Store.  A cafe and clothing store with tropical shirts, accessories and a small selection of Panama Hats. 

The San Blas Islands 

The San Blas Islands are a series of many low lying islands and shills on the Caribbean side of the country. They are a tropical paradise for beach hopping, snorkeling and learning about the Guna Yana indigenous community.

The Guna Yana Indigenous People.  The region is an autonomous zone in Panama home to and managed by the Guna Yana. While here, it’s common to see islands covered in palm reed and thatched houses, women wearing traditional Molas and fishermen paddling between islands in dugout canoes. 

Touring the Islands.  We voyaged into the sea passing palm covered islands, looking back to see views of Panama’s mountains as the spray of the sea misted across our faces. 

Private Island.  After a scenic boat ride, we arrived at a beautiful private island covered in palm trees and surrounded by sandy shores with vibrant blue water and patches of seagrass. 

Sand Bar.  Two hours later, our guides brought us to a shallow sand bar with crystal clear water, star fish and a small coral reef to snorkel above.

Dog Island.  In the early afternoon, we arrived a an island with a sunken ship taken over by a thriving reef with all types of colorful corals and tropical fish. On shore, we were each served a whole fried corvina fish with patacones, fresh fruit and a local beer. 

Isla Diablo.  Towards the late afternoon, we visited one more island for beach time and tropical drinks before returning to Panama City. 

Getting Here:  We booked a tour with Panama San Blas Tours through Viator. Our guide picked us up at 5:15am and drove us 3 hours across the country through verdant forest and hilly terrain to reach the Caribbean coast and San Blas Islands. The last 30min of the drive are nauseating and extremely curvy with steep hills. Overall, the full day tour was incredibly memorable, very relaxing and well organized. 

Taboga Island

The City of Taboga.  Taboga is a colorful town built into the lush hillside of the island with laidback vibes, beaches and hiking trails. Here, locals drive around on golf carts and say hola (hello) or buenas (short for good day) as they pass by. The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with flowering trees and bushes with many light boxes housing statues of the Virgin Mary.

Playa La Restinga.  A clean sandy beach that bridges Taboga and Morro Islands with views of the ship dotted harbor and Panama City skyline in the distance. The shore is covered in pink and white sea shells seen as decor on houses across the island. There are vendors selling beachwear, serving piña coladas in pineapples, preparing fried seafood and renting umbrellas, lounges and boats.

Sendero de Tres Cruzas.  Following the winding walkways up the hillside, we reached the trail head. The trail leads deep into nature so much so that you forget about that a sprawling metropolis is still nearby. As we hiked through the humid forest, we heard the sounds of breaking of branches, the falling of fruit, bussing insects and squawking birds. Along the way, we spotted tarantula, numerous neon green and black poison tree frogs, large iridescent blue butterflies, skittish lizards and spiraling vortexes of vultures. 

Cerro El Vigía.  Sendero de Tres Cruzes leads to an uphill but easy to walk road to the island’s summit, Cerro El Vigía. From the summit, the town of Taboga is dwarfed by the panoramic views of the lush island, hundreds of ships anchored in the bay and city beyond.

Getting Here:  Visiting Taboga is an easy day trip from Panama City. We took the Taboga Express Ferry from the Amador Causeway. Along the 30min boat ride, the ferry passes dozens of anchored freighters and ships from all over the world waiting to enter the Panama Canal. 

What to Eat & Drink 

Cuisine 

• Ceviche.  White fish cured in lime juice with peppers, red onion and cilantro. It’s one of the most poplar dishes seen at restaurants across Panama. 

• Corvina.  A white fish popular in Panama. It’s often grilled or fried whole. 

• Paella.  A pan rice dish cooked in a pan with broth, spices, veggies, and meat. It’s also called One Pot on the Caribbean side of the country. 

• Patacones.  Twice fried and smashed plantain.

• Rice & Beans.  The classic Central American dish made from the two ingredients with spices. 

• Hojaldra.  Fried dough often served at breakfast.

National Beers 

• Balboa.  A semi nutty bear similar to a Modelo. 

• Panamá.  A light beer similar to a Bud Light. 

• San Felipe.  A pretty standard and easy drinking lager. 

Where to Stay 

La Manzana.  A large mixed use building with modern apartment rentals, artist studios and a co-working space. It’s a quick 10 minute walk through the arts district to Casco Viejo. We stayed in well equipped and designed a studio here during our time in Panama City. Book here on Airbnb. 

Getting Around

By Metro.  Panama City has a very modern and efficient metro system with two lines crossing town. We took the metro from the airport to just outside of Casco Viejo neighborhood. 

By MetroBus.  Buses are the most economical way to navigate the Panama City though inefficient. Expect to wait a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes for most lines. 

Albrook Station.  Panama’s Central Terminal for the metro and buses. City buses from here are generally efficient and affordable. There are routes from here to destinations across Panama. 

Tarjeta Recargable Para Metro y Metrobus.  Buy a re-loadable card at any metro station for $2. Fares cost around $0.25 to $0.50 for both metro and metrobus. 

Yellow Cabs.  Taxis are all over the city. Drivers looking for fares will often tap their horn looking for passengers as they drive around the city. 

Uber.  A secure alternative to taxis. Fares cost $1-$10 to get around the city depending on distance and time of day or $20-$30 to/from the airport. 

On Foot. Casco Viejo is very walkable. Any further distances will require public transit or an Uber. 

Panama Stop Over 

We booked our flights with Copa Airlines taking advantage of their stopover program when transiting through Panama City. The airline paid for our flight to Panama City in route to your our destination. Stopovers can last anywhere from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 7 days. We stayed the full 7 days. This saved us hundreds of dollars on flights and allowed us to visit a county that’s been on our list for years! 

Good To Know

• Currency:  Panama uses the Panama Balboa and US dollar interchangeably. They are valued equally.

• Toilets:  Like many places in Central and South America, the plumbing can’t handle toilet paper. If there is a bin next to a toilet, that’s where it’s intended to go.

• Language:  Spanish and English are widely spoken by most people, restaurant menus and most museums have descriptions in both languages. 

• Ticket Prices:  The costs for foreign tourists at most sights and museums are about 20-30% higher.

• Tipping:  10-15% is standard for tipping

• Safety: We found Panama to be a very safe country. People are friendly & helpful. There is a strong tourist police and military presence throughout Panama City, especially the old town, likely due to the president’s residence being here.

• Tourism:  We did not come across a single American tourist. Many people visiting came from across Panama and other country’s in South America. 

• LGBTQ:  Panama is a very welcoming  country to the LGBTQ community. We saw many other gay couples, travelers and tour operators. 

For Next Time…

We loved our time in Panama and with Copa Airline’s Stopover Program, we will certainly be returning. When we do, we hope to visit more areas along the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. 

Coiba National Park.  A bio reserve with beaches, reefs and rainforest. Come to hike the rainforest, snorkel with marine life, swim with whale sharks, surf pacific waves, spot tropical birds, monkeys and sloths. 

Bocas del Toro Archipelago.  A chain of 300 plus Caribbean islands with beaches, coral reefs and surfing spots. It’s hub for Afro-Caribbean cultures with calypso, reggae and soca music and cuisine made from seafood cooked in coconuts and seasoned with spices. Popular islands to visit are Colon, the Bastimentos and Carenero.

Key West, Florida

Key West

Key West is a tropical island at the end of the Florida Keys where roosters roam free, flip flops are worn as dress shoes and beach vibes rule above all else. The key is home to many restaurants, bars, boutique hotels, historic sights, colorful wooden houses and waters dotted with sailboats. 

The Overseas Highway

The Overseas Highway is scenic stretch of road crossing the ocean and connecting the Florida Keys with mainland Florida. We made a day trip of our drive on the highway, stopping at multiple keys along the way.

Tiki Bar at Postcard Inn.  A hotel bar on Islamorada credited with inventing the Rum Runner cocktail. We stopped for a drink to find the restaurant under renovation. 

Robbie’s.  We ordered a Rum Runner here and stopped to hand feed the tarpon swimming around the restaurant’s dock. For $5, we bought a bucket of fish and dangled them over the edge of the dock. Soon after, a tarpon jumped from the water snatching the fish directly from our hands. 

Keys Fisheries.  A restaurant on Islamorada with all manner of fresh caught seafood. We stopped here for their famous lobster ruebens. 

Sea Turtle Hospital.  A sanctuary to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles on Marathon Key. Tour the facility and its tanks of sea turtles. I visited here on a trip to the keys years ago.

7 Mile Bridge.  A stretch of the overseas highway crossing 7 miles of open ocean. Stop at the 7 Mile Bridge Vista to walk onto the pedestrian bridge and overlook and the blue tropical seas. We spotted manatees swimming here. 

Bahia Honda State Park.  We stopped here for some afternoon sun and beach time. We lounged in the shallow waters of Loggerhead and Sandspur beaches.

Big Pine Key.  One of the last keys before reaching Key West. We kept an eye out for the Key Deer, an endangered species of tiny deer native to the island. 

The Conch Republic 

Key West, also called The Conch Republic, is truly an island paradise! While here, eat fried conch fritters and conch ceviche from one of the islands many restaurants, buy a conch shell from a souvenir shop and spot Conch Republic flags flying from local’s homes. 

Sights

Duval Street.  A famed and historic street stretching a mile across the key with seafood restaurants, cocktail bars, Cuban cafes, art galleries and souvenir shops.The north end is the most touristy while the south end is quieter and more local. 

The Old Town.  A historic area with colorful wooden house located at the north end of Duval street. 

Southern Most Point Buoy.  A striped concrete buoy and monument marking the southern most point in the continental US only 90 miles from Cuba. 

Bahamas Village.  A neighborhood in the south side of the key settled by immigrants from the Bahamas. Come to see the colorful houses and tropical gardens. 

The Hemingway Museum.  The former residence of American writer Ernest Hemingway. Tour his home and writing studio where he wrote many of his iconic novels and short stories. Walk through the grounds lush gardens and pet Hemingway’s cats. 

Key West Lighthouse.  A short white lighthouse with a spiral stair case leading to the crown with panoramic views of the key. The light house keeper’s house is a small museum dedicated the history of Key West.

Fort Zachary Taylor Beach.  A park with a coral beach, short nature trails and a civil war era fort. Come here to swim and sunbathe, walk the nature trails and explore the cannon lined red brick and black cement fortress. The beach has a snack & beverage hut renting umbrellas & lounges. Wear beach shoes to avoid the jagged coral lining the beach. Along the shore is a shaded park with picnic tables and grills. 

Higgs Beach.  A small but sandy beach between two piers for snorkeling, swimming and swimming. I came here several years ago on a previous trip to Key West.

Mallory Square.  No night in Key West would be complete without joining hundreds of people and watching the sunset from Mallory Square during the daily sunset festival. Arrive early with a drink in hand as the day ends and the night begins. 

Truman Waterfront Farmers Market. A Thursday afternoon market with vendors selling boozy popsicles, empanadas, samosas, honey, breads, cheeses, vegetables and tropical fruits like dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya, star fruit, lychee & star fruit. 

Where to Eat and Drink

Key West is where “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” and “island time” meet.  There are many restaurants with laid back vibes and bars serving tropical cocktails. 

Tiki Bar.  A cocktail bar with classic tiki drinks like the Mai Tai, Jungle Bird, Zombie and Hurricane. There is live music nightly, a shop selling tiki mugs and hidden tiki bar in the back.

Eaton Street Seafood Market.  A seafood market and restaurant serving the day’s fresh catch. We came for conch ceviche, stone crab claws and beers from Islamorada Brewing. 

Schooner Wharf Bar.  Come here for the shrimp! They source their shrimp from Key West’s last shrimping boat docked in front of the restaurant. We devoured the coconut shrimp and drunken shrimp, a peel and eat shrimp boiled in beer and spices! 

Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar.  An inn with several rooms and a rum bar with one of the largest collections of rum in the US. Sip on rum neat the at bar chatting with locals and other vacationers or sit on their porch overlooking Duval Street while enjoying a Painkiller. 

Hemingway Social Club.  A cocktail bar attached to the Hemingway Rum Distillery. Come here for cocktails like a Hemingway Daiquiri made with their house run while listening to the live music.

Cafelito.  A cafe with a walk up window selling iced Cuban coffees and Cuban pastries like the guava and cheese turn over.

Sally Frog’s.  A bar near Malloy Square with cocktails and local beers like the Crazy Lady Honey Blonde Ale brewed at The Waterfront Brewery.

Cuban Coffee Queen.  A small coffee shack by the harbor selling cups of Cuban coffee.

Cocomelon.  A juice bar and cafe selling ice cold fresh coconuts. Come here to sip coconut water from the tropical fruit while relaxing in their patio.

Kermit’s Key Lime Shop.  Come for the key lime pie! They sell it by the slice, whole and frozen on a stick. 

Dry Tortugas National Park

60 miles from Key West are the Dry Tortugas, a national park with several low lying islands, protected marine and avian reserves, a massive civil war fortress, a light house and a campground. 

Fort Jefferson.  An hexagonal three level civil war fort rising from the sea. The historic red brick fort is surrounded by a mote with a large interior court yard and the ruins of many military structures. 

We spent time exploring the 3 levels of the fort. The ground level houses many of the forts supportive facilities like a bakery, cistern and the barracks. The second level was dedicated to the prisoner’s cells and the hospital. The third level is overgrown with trails leading along the wall past cannons and to the fort’s lighthouse. 

Outside of the fort is a mote and wall designed to protect the main fort from the sea. Walk along it to admire its historic outer walls, look out towards the sea and spot tropical fish. 

Beaches.  Outside of the fort, there are two coral beaches to swim at with warm and shallow water. The South Beach was the calmest and clearest for swimming and snorkeling. There is some sea grass, fragments of broken coral throughout the bay. The North Beach was a little choppier with less visibility for snorkeling. 

Snorkeling.  Along the wall of the South Beach, we spotted smaller tropical fish, some living coral, sea anemones, pink jelly fish and the carcus of a giant spiny lobsters.  

Land Bridge.  Walk the tidal land bridge towards the avian reserve of Long Key. The shallow stretch of sand it covered in conch shells, sand dollars and broken coral. Come here to spot pelicans and sand pipers. 

Loggerhead Lighthouse.  A black and white lighthouse visible on the horizon from Fort Jefferson on Loggerhead Key, nearly two miles away.

Camping.  There’s something special about camping on a desert island in the middle of the sea! I camped here overnight on my last trip to Key West and the Dry Tortugas between some of the islands only few trees and bushes. 

Yankee Freedom.  The main company ferrying between Key West and the Dry Tortugas. The ticket includes transit, a tour of the fort, snorkel equipment, breakfast and lunch, cocktails for purchase. 

Getting Here.  It takes 2 hours 30min to reach the Dry Tortugas from Key West with 4 hours on the island. Book in August and September for $50 off an order of 2 tickets. Book here! 

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Speakeasy Inn & Rum Bar! The boutique inn on the south end of Duval Street has two floors of newly renovated rooms and is stumbling distance away from their rum bar. Our stay included free parking, a welcome cocktail and discounted drinks! 

Getting Around 

Key west is very walkable, especially along the mile long stretch of Duval Street. Even so, there are many rentals offering bikes, scooter and golf cart. 

• Bikes $10 / day 

• Scooters $35 / day 

• Golf carts $100 / day 

The Conch Train.  A multi car trolly that rides around the city passing most of the sights with a narrated guide. 

Good to Know 

Locals leave during the month of September to vacation elsewhere. As a result, some restaurants and bars are closed. However, as this is the slow season, many hotels offer deals making the island more affordable to visit.

For Next Time…

We loved our time visiting Key West! We hope to return for more rum cocktails, sunset views and the tropical atmosphere. Outside of Key West, we would love to spend a few nights exploring the other keys more. 

New Orleans

NOLA

New Orleans is a historic city with a lively, liberal and romantic atmosphere. We fell in love with NOLA so much so that it’s where we’re planning to get married in 2022. Between visiting venues and wedding planning, we spent time indulging in the city’s unique Cajun cuisine and Creole flavors, riding the street car down oak lined boulevards, walking through residential neighborhoods to look at the colorful cottages, listening to Jazz echo from the bars while drinking in the streets and learning more about the city’s past. Above all, New Orleans is a place to relax and celebrate, one of the many reason we can’t wait for our wedding day!

Things to Do

Jazz on Frenchman Street.  This is the place to be for dancing and live Jazz. There are a number of late night bars, creole restaurants and artist markets to make for a memorable night. It’s much tamer and more authentic than the famed Bourbon Street. 

Ride the St. Charles Street Car. The street car follows St. Charles Avenue, an oak tree lined street covered in Mardi Gras beads. The street car is the perfect way to get across town while admiring the historic homes and mansions in the Garden District.

Order a To-Go Daiquiri.  Almost every bar on Bourbon St. offers a selection of frozen daiquiris made to go. As long as it’s in a plastic container, it’s legal to publicly drink anywhere in New Orleans. 

Beignets at Café du Monde.  Visit the original location, located in the French Market, the most famous place to order a beignet and cafe au lait. We were lucky enough to visit while a brass band was playing out front.  

• Beignets are fried rectangular pieces of dough covered in powdered sugar.

• Cafe au lait is French for coffee with milk.

Enjoy Creole Cuisine. A mix of West African, Indigenous American, French and Spanish flavors. Some of our favorite dishes are gumbo, catfish po’ boys and charbroiled oysters. 

Watch the Sunset at Lake Pontchartrain. We visited Breakwater Park to watch the sunset. The calm shallow waters reflect every color in the sky. Afterwards, there are a number of seafood restaurants nearby to enjoy dinner.

Visit a Cemetery.  The dead in New Orleans are buried above ground in elevated plots or mausoleums because the city sits below sea level. We walked thorough the rows of St. Joseph Cemetery and Lafayette Cemetery No. 2. Both of which were open and free to tour. 

Walk down Crescent Park.  A riverfront park located along the Mississippi with a 1.4mile path. Watch the ships pass by and sound their fog horns. Afterwards, cross the “Rusty Rainbow Bridge” into the ByWater neighborhood. 

Cross the Mississippi.  There is a ferry located along the river front at the end of Canal Street that crosses the Mississippi to Algiers Point. It’s a quiet neighborhood to enjoy a po’ boy for lunch, look back at the skyline and walk the levy. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

The French Quarter.  The Quarter is the historic center of New Orleans with Spanish and French architecture, gas lit lanterns and cobble stone streets. It’s a hub for live Jazz, all night cocktail bars and Creole cuisine. We loved wandering its quiet side streets as well as bar hopping on Bourbon Street. 

Bourbon Street. The city’s most well known street located in the French Quarter. This street is often packed with people flaunting Mardi Gras beads, having the fortunes read and ordering to-go drinks from the colorfully lit all night bars. It gets a bit crazy but is worth visiting at least once.

The Garden District.  A residential district flanked between Magazine St. and St. Charles Ave. The neighborhood is home to historic mansions and cottages, large oak trees and leafy palms. It’s a beautiful neighborhood to explore on foot or along the St. Charles Street Car. 

Magazine Street.  One of the city’s Main Streets with restaurants, bars, boutiques, art galleries, vintage shops and creole architecture. It’s about 6 miles long, stretching from The French Quarter through The Garden District and into Uptown. Every stretch of it is well worth exploring.

Irish Channel.  Located between Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, this cute residential neighborhood has many of our favorites restaurants, cafes and bars. There are lots of great Airbnb’s to stay at here. 

Marigny.  This beautiful neighborhood, just outside of the French Quarter, is a charming place to walk through to look at the brightly colored Creole cottages and shotgun houses. There are also lots of great Airbnb’s here. Come for Frenchman Street, the artists markets and local restaurants. 

ByWater. Basically an extension of Marigny, this neighborhood is a little more bohemian/hipster with flea markets, cafes, cocktail bars and funky restaurants. 

Arts/Warehouse District.  A former warehouse district converted into a hub for cocktail bars, high end restaurants and art galleries. 

Uptown. A broad area on the Riverside of New Orleans. Visit Maple and Oak Streets for the restaurants and nightlife. Both areas are popular with Tulane and Loyola students.

Lavender Line. Not technically a street but it encompasses a number of gay bars in the French Quarter north of Bourbon Street, many along St. Ann Street. Some of our favorites are Café Lafitte in Exile and Good Friends Bar.

See Some Art

NOMA (New Orleans Museum of Art).  The museum has a great collection of Southern, French and Modern painting, historic and multi-cultural artifacts and a remarkable sculpture garden with beautifully landscaped grounds. There is also a rotating gallery, it had a LGBTQ+ photography exhibit when we visited. 

New Orleans Jazz Museum.  A museum teaching about the origin of Jazz, some of its most notable musicians and its importance in New Orleans. 

New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.  A tiny but educational museum in the French Quarter with many voodoo artifacts and altars. It’s a great place to visit and learn more about the religion. They also offer cemetery tours and bone readings.

Shopping

Merchant House Collective.  An antique warehouse with mid to late 20th century furniture, home-goods and accessories. There is a plant shop and an upstairs with vintage tees, clothing and jewelry. 

Frenchman Street Market.  A nightly market located on Frenchman Street where artists sell illustrations, sculptures, jewelry, decor and perform live music. 

Second Line Art & Antiques. An antique market with old wooden furniture, vintage clothing and taxidermy insects. It’s courtyard also doubles as an artist’s market. 

Magazine Antique Mall. A classic antique mall located on Magazine Street with dozens of booths filled with miscellaneous items and treasures. We found some unique cookware and dishes. 

Voodoo Authentica.  A tiny shop in the French Quarter with a large selection of voodoo dolls. It’s an educational place to learn more about the modern practice of Voodoo. 

French Market.  A market under a series of sheds in the French Quarter with food stalls, flea market tables and souvenir vendors. Though nothing like a traditional French Market, we enjoyed walking through it after ordering beignets from the original Cafe du Monde.  

Taste Everything!

If you come to New Orleans for one thing, come for the cuisine! There are so many dishes and drinks unique to this city alone. These are some of favorites:

Crawfish Mac n Cheese.  A Cajun classic made with crawfish tails, rich gooey cheese and macaroni noodles. 

Shrimp and Grits.  A classic breakfast dish with creamy buttery grits and tender Gulf shrimp. 

Po’boy.  A classic Louisiana sandwich made on crispy bun with a fluffy center. It always has a protein, usually seafood, and comes “fully dressed” with lettuce, tomato, a pickle and mayo. 

Fried Catfish.  A slightly gamey and flaky white fish. We often ordered it on a Po’boy.

Gumbo.  A traditional soup to New Orleans often eaten from October through March. It’s a savory melting pot of flavors and cultures having influences from the Indigenous Choctaw, West Africans, French and Spanish. 

Chargrilled Oysters.  Gulf Coast oysters that have been grilled with herbs and cheese.

The Sazerac.  A sipping cocktail made from whiskey, cognac and absinthe usually garnished with a lemon peel. 

The Hurricane.  A sweet, fruity, tropical rum drink served in a tall curved glass. 

Hand Grenade.  A cocktail served on Bourbon St. by a few specific bars. It’s a very sweet drink served in a tall neon green plastic container with the shape of a grenade at the bottom. Basically a hangover waiting to happen…enjoy! 

Restaurants 

Commander's Palace.  Commander’s is an unmistakable teal and white wooden restaurant located across the street from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. It’s a family run business offering the best of high-end Creole cuisine in New Orleans. We tried the slow cooked gumbo, pecan crusted gulf fish covered in lump crab and a version of the crawfish linguini. For dessert, the bread pudding soufflé. Be sure to make a reservation and come dressed up. 

Between dishes, the owner sat down with us to chat. She said “we go to the same church.” A discrete Southern way of identifying with other LGBTQ+ people. Needless to say, we felt very welcomed and even shared a dance in the courtyard towards the end of the evening. 

Jacques-Imos.  It’s hard to choose a favorite restaurant in New Orleans but this one is up there! Try the snail butter corn bread, Creole Bouillabaisse, Crawfish Étouffée and bread pudding. Make a reservation in advance and come ready to eat!

The Rum House.  Located on Magazine St. and a gem for á la carte tacos. We almost hired the restaurant to cater our wedding.  

Killer Po’Boys.  The best spot in the French Quarter for po’boys. In addition to the classic seafood options, they offer vegan Po’boys like roasted cauliflower or sweet potato. 

Effervescence.  Relax by the outdoor fountain with a glass of Champagne, oysters and caviar served with a mother of pearl spoon. 

Pechê.  Recommended to us by a few locals, this restaurant in the offers Cajun and Gulf style seafood. 

Green Goddess.  A vegan restaurant in a romantic string lit alley in the French Quarter. It’s a nice reprieve from some of the craziness. 

Basin Seafood & Spirits.  Come for the Po’boys and Chargrilled Oysters.

Juan’s Flying Burrito.  If you’re on Magazine St. and craving a burrito, Juan’s is the place to visit. They have two locations. One in Uptown and another in the Lower Garden District. 

Cafes

The Vintage.  A coffee shop with artisanal beignets by day and bar by night. We ordered a flight of 3, the matcha, pumpkin and raspberry.  

Café Beignet.  Another popular chain for beignets. Visit the Bourbon St. location for a beignet, cup of chicory and of course live jazz.

French Truck Coffee.  A local chain cafe with amazing coffee, biscuit sandwiches, breakfast toasts and croissants. If it’s fully brewed, try the Oji coffee. It’s Japanese method of slow brewing 1 drop at a time over 24 hours.

Bear Cat Cafe.  A breakfast and brunch spot with cajun meals, vegan options and fresh kombucha. We ordered the crab scramble and vegan biscuits + gravy. Make sure to try the breakfast potatoes. 

City Donuts & Cafe.  One of the best finds in the city. Come here for a donut breakfast sandwich! Literally egg and cheese sandwiched between two regular glazed donuts. 

Orleans Coffee Espresso Bar.  A great spot to relax with a coffee or cafe au lait. 

Bars 

Delachaise Wine Bar.  One of our favorite spots in town. Come here for a glass of wine and to watch the St. Charles street cars pass by.

QiQi.  A LGBTQ+ dive bar with inexpensive drinks, a laid back vibe and outdoor seating. 

Hot Tin.  A rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel with great cocktails and views of NoLa.

The Elysian Bar.  A former church turned into a restaurant and cocktail bar. The nave of the church is now the main dining room with multiple parlors located throughout the rectory. It’s a funky and unique experience!

Old Absinthe House.   A 200+ year old absinthe bar on Bourbon St. offering traditional absinthe drip cocktails. It stands out from the neon lit cocktail bars lining the street. The walls are covered in notes and business cards from generations of customers, 

Good Friends Bar.  One of the many gay bars in the French Quarter but also one of our favorites. The 2 floor bar is a hub for the gay community, locals and tourists. 

Café Lafitte in Exile.  Considered the oldest gay bar in the US. It’s a fun spot to grab a drink on Bourbon St. 

Mini Excursions 

Outside of New Orleans, there are a number of mini excursions to go on. We booked ours with Cajun Encounters, a local tour company. 

Swamp Tour. New Orleans is surrounded by swamps that have had a large influence on they city’s architecture, industry and cuisine. They are also natural buffers that offer protection from hurricanes. We visited the Honey Island Swamp where we saw wild bores, alligators, cypress trees and Spanish moss while boating through the bayous and past swamp houses. 

Plantation Tours. Educate yourself on the history of slavery. New Orleans’ past is one we chose to learn more about while visiting. About an hour up-river are a number of plantations offering tours. We visited the Oak Alley Plantation, named for its row of 300 year old oak trees. Here, we learned about the lives of the enslaved people that were forced to labor here, the conditions they lived in and the African influences they brought with them. There is also a great restaurant here. Order a Po’boys and a flight of Mint Juleps!

Pro tip: Book a tour or drive here yourself. Uber and Lyft don’t drive to this area. 

Getting Around 

Take the Street Car. There are 4 lines that branch out from Canal St in the city’s center to different neighborhoods. Streetcars are the easiest and most affordable way to get around town. 

Download RTAGoMobile2.0 app to buy tickets. 

• Single ride pass costs $1.25

• 1 Day pass costs $3

• 3 Day pass costs $9

• 5 Day pass costs $15

On Foot.  Grab a to-go cocktail and start walking. The city is so photogenic and great for exploring on foot. 

Lyft or Uber.  Overall, New Orleans is pretty easy and affordable to get around. 

• $10 for short distances

• $10-$20 to get across town

• $30 to/from the airport to Canal St.

Good to Know

• NOLA is short for New Orleans, Louisiana

• Dress casually chic to semi formal for higher end restaurants.

• Riverside refers to the south side or area along the Mississippi.

• Lakeside refers to the north side or area along Lake Pontchartrain

• Watch out for scam artists on Bourbon St. If any ones bets they can tell you where you got your shoes…tell them you’ve got them on Bourbon St.

Next Time in New Orleans 

With our wedding approaching, we will soon be back in New Orleans. We can’t wait to share our amazing experiences in this city with our family and friends! 

• We hope to return for Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest.

• Tour St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 after their repairs are complete.

• We would love to go sailing on Lake Pontchartrain.

• Eat and drink more! Two places we wanted to try are Bar Marilou in the Warehouse District and Elizabeth’s in By Water.

San Juan, Puerto Rico

Bienvenidos al Viejo San Juan

Old San Juan is an enchanting, romantic, vibrant and gay friendly neighborhood of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The old town is lined with cobble stone streets, colorful colonial architecture, world famous cocktail bars, restaurants serving Caribbean cuisine and playing music during all hours of the day. It is rich in history, flanked by two fortresses and surrounded by a stone wall overlooking the North Atlantic. 

After visiting several times over the past few years, the island has become a second home to us. We often fantasize about moving here, living in the old town and opening a bakery. This guide focuses primarily on Old San Juan (OSJ) and the surrounding neighborhoods in San Juan.

Neighborhoods & Streets

La Perla.  A colorful seaside neighborhood located between the north wall of OSJ and the Atlantic Coast. Over the past years, the community in La Perla has turned their neighborhood into a destination filled with rustic bars, local hangouts and art. 

Calle San Sebastián.  This street is filled with colorful and vibrant colonial architecture and incredible nightlife. Multiple famous bars as well as a few gay bars can be found here. 

Calle San Francisco.  This street runs central through OSJ and is a good place to start exploring. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, hotels, plazas and residences here.

Calle de la Luna.  Though all streets in OSJ are flanked with beautiful architecture, this one is one of our favorites to walk down. There are many colorful buildings, colonial balconies, unique door knockers and abandoned buildings that have been retaken by nature. 

Calle Fortaleza.  This street is filled with shops, restaurants and usually has a shaded awning the block before reaching the Governor’s Palace, La Forteleza. It used to be hundreds of colorful umbrellas and most recently, the Puerto Rican flag.

Sights & Museums 

Castillo de San Cristóbal.  This is one of the largest colonial military fortress in the Caribbean and marks the entrance to OSJ. You can easily spend a half day here exploring the barracks, fortress walls, guard towers and grounds. One of the fort’s hidden gems is a surviving drawing of Spanish ships drawn on the wall of a former prison cell deep with in the tunnels. 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro).  This is the oldest colonial fortress in the Caribbean and a great place to learn about the history and strategic importance of OSJ. Similar to San Cristobal, you can spend an afternoon here exploring the different levels and sections. The fort is perched on the NW side of the old town. It’s accessible after crossing a large lawn known for flying Chiringas or kites and food carts selling Piraguas, tropical flavored shaved ice.

(Pro tip: Your receipt from one fort gets you access to the other on the same day you visit.)

Paseo del Morro.  A romantic seaside pathway that follows the old town’s wall. It is a beautiful place to walk, watch the sunset and look out towards the sea. It passes La Puerta de San Juan, the original entrance to the walled city and connects Paseo de la Princesa to the Maria Magdelana Cemetery. 

Maria Magdalena Cemetery.  A beautiful seaside cemetery located between La Perla and El Morro along the coast, a strategic place thought to carry the deceased souls across the ocean and into the afterlife.

Paseo de la Princesa.  A palm lined seaside promenade along the south wall. There is a nightly market with salsa dancing, food trucks offering up fried foods and sweets, gazebos selling cocktails, and tented vendors selling homemade crafts.

Capilla del Cristo.  A small but beautiful chapel dedicated to health and well being. People feed and pose with pigeons here…

Plaza das Armas.  OSJ’s historic town square with performers, a fountain, statues and pigeons. It’s a favorite spot of ours to grab a coffee and mallorca from the green gazebo in the NW corner.    

Museo de las Americas.  This museum focuses on pre-colonial and modern art and artifacts, the colonization of Puerto Rico and the island’s African heritage.

Things to Do

Hire a Photographer.  Hire a photographer to take photos of you around the old town during the morning or evening golden hours. There are a number of options available though Airbnb Experiences. We booked with Raul and couldn’t have been happier with the outcome! 

Fly a Chiringa. The ocean breezes above the lawn in front of El Morro make it a great location and fun Sunday afternoon pastime. Kites can be bought from street vendors adjacent to the lawn on Calle Norzagaray. 

Walk to the Beach

• Playa Peña. The closest beach to OSJ, located on the other side of Castillo de San Cristobal. It is a cute sand and rock beach below the cliff in front of the capitol.

• Playa El Escambrón. Less than 15 minutes from OSJ, it’s a popular beach for swimming, snorkeling, grilling and sunbathing.

Visit the Farmers Market.  Located in front of the San Juan Museum every Saturday morning. It’s a great spot to purchase local produce, fresh baked breads and flowers.

The Food Scene 

A huge part of the culture in Puerto Rico involves eating, drinking and getting together with others. With that in mind, there are so many great places to eat and drink. 

Pro tip: It’s best to make a reservation whenever dining out in OSJ. 

Restaurants 

La Garita .  A restaurant and bar serving Puerto Rican dishes and rum cocktails with a view overlooking La Perla. Ask for a Pina Colada made with a double shot of Don Q, Puerto Rico’s most popular rum. 

El Jibarito.  Another restaurant serving Puerto Rican dishes. Come here for the whole fried fish and mofongo. 

T•tuan.  A lively restaurant on the wall with live bands and drag shows on the weekends. Try the mahi mahi sliders, crab empanadillas and coconut grilled shrimp.

San Se Marisquería.  Close to the bars on San Sebastian, this is a great spot to eat before or while enjoying the nightlife. 

La Madre.  A Mexican restaurant with delicious tacos. Eat outside on the pedestrian tree-lined street. 

Cayo Caribe.  A small local chain of restaurants serving Caribbean seafood. Try the Salmorejo (stewed land crab and tomatoes)

Ladis.  A famous seaside restaurant built into the cliff between OSJ and Condado. Come here for the food, cocktails and ocean view.

Señor Paleta.  A popular spot to buy fruit and dessert popsicles mid-day or after dinner.

Cafes 

La Carreta.  Come here for the variety of sweet and savory breakfast dishes. Try a mimosa made from freshly squeezed OJ. 

St Germain.  A creative and vegetarian friendly breakfast spot. 

La Bombonera.  A historic restaurant and diner known for their Mallorca, soft, buttery sweet and fluffy bread rolls often dusted in powdered sugar. Try them alone or pressed in a sandwich grill.

Caficultura.  A good spot for breakfast and coffee, have the Mallorca con Guayaba (guava).

Pilao Bakery-Cafe.  Bakery with large portion breakfasts and coffee 

Bars 

La Factoria.  A famous cocktail bar great for music and dancing Salsa. It’s cash only and be prepared to order several drinks. 

La Cubanita.  Connected to La Factoria, this bar is offers equally as good and unique cocktails. Our favorite section is the hidden bar up the stairs and though a door to the right. 

El Batey.  The definition of a dive bar and open late. The walls and lights are covered in graffiti, notes, cash and napkins left behind from past visitors.

La Casita.  A pink house and outdoor cocktail bar serving rum and tiki drinks overlooking the bay. It’s a nice escape from the busy streets or to end the night.

La Verguenza.  This multi-level bar overlooks La Perla is the center of nightlife in OSJ. The nightly party spills out into the streets and continues early into the morning. 

La 39.  An unofficial roof top bar past the basketball courts in La Perla serving Medalla an inexpensive local beer served everywhere across the island.  People often flow between here and La Verguenza. 

La Terraza De San Juan.  This hotel has a large rooftop bar with 360 views of Old San Juan. Buy a drink from the street level bar and walk up the flight of stairs then sit back and relax in one of the lounges or tiny infinity pool.

Cannon Club.  A dueling piano bar with live parrots, multiple levels and eclectic decor. This place is more about the drinks and unique atmosphere than the food.

Explore San Juan!

Though we love Old San Juan, it’s fun to venture outside of the old town and experience life and culture beyond its historic walls. 

Neighborhoods & Streets

Santurce.  A trendy and gritty area of San Juan. It’s an affordable place to stay, admire the graffiti & murals, visit art museums and experience local culture, cuisine and nightlife.

Condado.  Popular for hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches. It’s a nice place to relax during the day before going out at night. 

Ocean Park.  A trendy yet local neighborhood popular with the LGBTQ+ community and younger crowds. Come here for the variety of restaurants, nightlife and beach.

Miramar.  A residential neighborhood with historic homes and buildings built in The Spanish Colonial Revival style. It’s central to Old San Juan, Santruce and Condado. 

Calle Loíza.  Ocean Park’s main street for restaurants, food halls and bars. A good street to walk for breakfast and lunch options. Loíza Brinca. Famous corner building featuring the Puerto Rican flag

Calle Cerra.  A gritty street in Santurce with many large murals and graffiti works. The street and surrounding neighborhood has many cafes & bars to grab a coffee or drink while exploring. 

Sights & Museums 

Fortín San Jerónimo de Boquerón.  A small fort at the mouth of the Condado Lagoon. The visiting hours are infrequent due to repairs post Hurricane Maria. It’s worth visiting if open. 

Puente Dos Hermanos.  The bridge crossing the Condado Lagoon connecting to Old San Juan. It’s beautiful to walk across with great views. There is also a ledge making it easy to jump from into the lagoon. The Condado side has a small sandy beach, Playita del Condado. 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  A well curated and diverse collection of Puerto Rican art and history. After touring the galleries, walk through the sculpture garden. 

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (MAC).  A contemporary art museum with rotating galleries specific to social movements, local artists and Puerto Rican heritage. 

Things to Do

SUP or Kayak in Laguna de Condado.  Tour companies based around the lagoon offer SUP and Kayak rentals for $20/hour. The lagoon is a boat free place to spot eagle rays, star fish and sea turtles. We booked though VIP Adventures Puerto Rico.

Dance Salsa.  Take a beginners salsa class before dancing in the clubs. We took an Airbnb Experience with Angelina in the Plaza Antonia Quiñones

Visit a Rum Distillery.  The two distilleries to visit are the Bacardi Factory or Ron del Barrilito. Both offer similar experiences. Bacardi is large scale production while Ron de Barrilito is small batch and higher end. Arrive to a welcome drink, learn about the history of each distillery, their processes of rum making and afterwards take a mixology class, sample aged vintages or simply order cocktails from the bar. Either way, expect to leave tipsy.  

Beaches

Atlantic Beach.  A sandy beach great for swimming nearby the hotels in Condado. There are no public amenities (restrooms or showers) though vendors rent umbrellas and chairs for negotiable prices. There is frequently a gay section in front of The Tryst Hotel. 

Ocean Park Beach.  This vast beach is probably the most popular in San Juan. Everyone from locals, tourists, families and couples come here. There are plenty of restaurants, marine sports and activities, chair and umbrella rentals and vendors selling drinks on the beach.

Restaurants

Café Comunión.  A coffee shop and breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, open faced sandwiches and fresh sugar glazed donuts

Tostado - Calle Condado.  A coffee shop breakfast spot. Come for the coffee, tropical fruit French toast and egg dishes.

Tresbé.  Open air restaurant with multiple menus. Come for tacos, sushi, sliders and cocktails. 

La Marqueta.  An open air food hall with ocean views and palm trees. It’s a great spot to grab a bite or drink after visiting the lagoon or beach. 

Paulina Escanes-Gourmandize.  A locals restaurant in plain site. Innovative and creative Caribbean inspired dishes, cocktails and deserts. 

Wicked Lily.  The beach front bar at The Tryst Hotel. Come here for brunch, rent a pink umbrella and join the other gays soaking up the sun. 

Bottega.  We came for the inventive cocktails and music. We had the Safe Flight, Ritmo Tropica, El In-Muerto and shared the octopus salad. Lucha Libre DJ really added to the vibes of the night.

Food Truck Parks.  Quite popular across Puerto Rico, two go-tos in San Juan are Lote 23 and Miramar Food Truck Park.

La Placita

La Placita is a cultural hub. It is a place to buy local produce during the morning, where elderly locals gather during the day and an energetic place to meet people, drink late into the evening and dance Salsa. The plaza is surrounded by lively restaurants and bars.

The Produce Market.  Located inside the Plaza de Mercado in the center of the plaza. We used a machete to cut plantains from the bunch, picked out limes to make our own cocktails and selected a ripe papaya for lunch. 

La Tasca del Pescador.  The place to go for seafood. We ordered the snapper, squid Ink rice & grilled prawns.

Asere Cubano Kitchen and Bar.  A fusion of Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine with a roof top bar overlooking the plaza. 

La Alcapurria Quemá.  A hole in the wall for Puerto Rican street food, as the name suggests they’re known for their Alcapurria. 

Jungle Bird.  Tiki bar with tropical cocktails

Getting Around 

On Foot.  Old San Juan is best explored on foot! You can walk straight from end to end in less than 20 minutes. Spend time walking though the streets, admiring the architecture, discovering bars, dancing in the plazas and finding neighborhood gems.

By Shuttle.  There is a free shuttle or multi row golf cart that weaves through the streets southern streets of Old San Juan and along the perimeter towards El Morro. 

On Scooter.  As of late 2020, there are rental scooters available around the streets of San Juan. Download the Bird app and scan the scooter’s QR code to ride. 

By Uber.  Ubers are the best way to get to/from the airport and throughout San Juan. If you request an Uber in the old town, the best place to request one is along Calle Norzagaray or Plaza Colon. 

By Car / Parking.  Rent a car if you plan on exploring outside of San Juan. Though expensive, it’s still the most affordable way to get around. Traffic gets congested in and around Old San Juan. The best place to park in Old San Juan is Dona Fella,  garage on the south side of the Old Town. Parking typically costs $1 per hour.

For Next Time…

Whether a spontaneous weekend trip or planned vacation, we will certainly be back to Puerto Rico many more times! 

Piñones.  East of the airport is the town of Pinones. It is a food hub known for it Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine. The Main Street is lined with dozens of restaurant, bars and kiosks.

Take a Sunset Sail.  Several tour companies offer sunset boat tour around OSJ, often cruising from the inner bay around the walled city and turning around at La Perla. 

Explore more of the Island.  Visit Rincón, Aguadilla and Poncé to the West and the island of Vieques to the East.

Autumn in Amsterdam

Amsterdam, Netherlands

We visited Amsterdam during autumn when the days were cool, the leaves falling and nights long. The crisp air and ability to dress in layers made it a cozy time to visit and appreciate the slim historic buildings lining the rings of canals. The city is rife with creative restaurants and bars, vintage and design shops, has an accepting attitude and a strong coffee culture. 

See the City

Amsterdam is a city that’s meant to be explored! We spent a lot of time walking along the canals, wandering deep into the neighborhoods and parks, ducking in and out of shops and observantly looking at art in the museums. One of the best ways to see the city is on a canal cruise. 

Cruise the Canals

During the first evening of our trip, we took a leisurely cruise through the canals while sipping on wine and sampling Dutch cheeses. From within the covered boat, we looked out at the beautifully illuminated buildings, into countless house boats and admired how effortlessly the captain seemed to navigate through the narrow passageways and low bridges. Maybe it was the jet-lag or all the wine but the cruise eased us into a perfect state of tiredness and relaxation. 

There are several ways to easily experience the canals. Here are some of the other options we considered: 

Canal Cruise. Multiple companies offer canal tours and rides too and from various points around the city. All of which are competitively priced, well reviewed and routinely operating. We booked through Stromma. Outside of the wine and cheese cruise, there are traditional sightseeing options, brunch or dinner cruises and open boat tours. 

Plastic Whale. Go “plastic fishing” and help clean the waterways of plastic waste that would inevitably flow into the oceans. Book here.

Salon Boat.   Charter a private or small group tour on one of these elegant wooden boats. Book here.

SUP or Kayak.   Paddle through the canals on a stand up paddle or kayak.

Neighborhoods

De Pijp.   The neighborhood has a local vibe and attracts less tourists than more central parts of the city. It is home to one of the city’s largest markets, Albert Cuyp Market, and numerous cafes and brunch spots. We went on a cafe crawl sipping on different brews across the neighborhood. 

Oud West.   This expansive neighborhood is a great place to visit for its many restaurants, bars, markets, vintage and interior design shops. It’s nearby the city’s largest park, Vondelpark, and home to Ten Katemarkt Market and the De Hallen Food Hall.

Amsterdam Noord.   Is a former industrial neighborhood that’s become home to a large artist community. Many former warehouses have been transformed into waterfront bars, flea markets and art studios. It’s accessible via a ferry near Central Station.

IJburg.   This neighborhood is located on the east side of Amsterdam on an artificial island built over the past 25 years. As a result, all the homes and building are ultra modern while remaining reminiscent of the canal houses in the older neighborhoods closer to the city center.

Red Light District.   The RLD is one of the oldest and probably most well known neighborhoods in Amsterdam. It’s famous for its historic architecture, narrow streets, sex-workers, nightly peep shows and coffee shops. Even if you’re not inserted in the scene, it’s an exciting neighborhood to walk through day or night.

Reguliersdwarsstraat & Kerkstraat.   Two streets with a number of gay owned businesses and nightlife 

Sights & Museums

The Canal Belt.   The canals define Amsterdam branching out in semi-circles from the city’s center. The inner 4 rings are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Sight. Spend time exploring them, admiring the architecture and house boats. 

Canal Houses.   The narrow, ornate and sometimes slanted canal houses can be seen throughout Amsterdam. 

• Dancing Houses.   A series of highly slanted canal houses along the Amstel 

• The Golden Bend.  A bend along the Herengracht canal with the oldest and most stately canal houses 

• Twins.   Look for twins, two identical houses built side by side

Museumplein.   A public square surrounded by multiple museums. Come here to climb and sit on the I Amsterdam sign

Rijksmuseum.   The national art museum housing Dutch works created throughout the past several centuries. The most famous pieces to see are Vermeer’s The Milkmaid and Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. The museum is also home to the Cuypers Library, a picturesque art history and research library  

Van Gogh Museum.   This museum houses hundreds of the artist’s works and tells the story of his life from when he began painting until his death. If you appreciate Van Gogh’s work, this museum is truly worth visiting. Some notable pieces include a variety of his self portraits, The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and the Wheat Field with Crows.

Vondelpark.   The city’s largest park and green space. It’s a calm area for picnicking, bicycling and escaping the energy along the canals and streets.

Begijnhof.   A small grassy oasis surrounded by brick row houses. 

Homomonument.   A series of three triangular monuments built into the square to honor the LGBTQ+ people persecuted during the Holocaust. Next to it is the Pink Point, a resourceful gay tourist info center.

Anne Frank House.   Visit the home where Anne Frank and her family hid from persecution during WWII. 

Food & Drink

Stroopwafels.   Thin waffle crisps with caramel layered in-between. Use them to cover your hot coffee until the inside gets gooey. The best place in town to buy them is Van Wonderen Stroopwafels. Outside of the classic version, they top and decorate artisan batches with coconut, marshmallows, chocolate, nuts and sprinkles. 

Deep Dish Dutch Apple Pie.   A classic dessert but even more special when baked deep dish. Check out Wenkel 43 or look for cafes serving it. 

Pickled Herring.   Raw herring served with pickles and onions. It can be found at street carts around the city, one of which is Haring & Co.

Frites & Mayo.   Another street food, look out for Wil Graanstra Friteshuis. Order them twice fried! 

Gouda.   One of the most well known Dutch cheeses. Fromageries around the city liberally hand out samples of the different favors and ages. 

Bitterballen & Kroketten.   Two versions of a potato, sauce and meat mixture fried in a ball or cylinder.

Poffertjes.   Dutch pancakes. They are fluffy, tiny, yeasted and buckwheat pancakes covered in powdered sugar. 

Gin and Tonic.   Almost every bar offers their own take on this classic cocktail by infusing the drinks and offering creative mixes. 

Restaurants & Bars

There are endless options when it comes to dining in Amsterdam. Whether along a canal, in a historic building, near a windmill or simply on the sidewalk. We never had a bad meal anywhere we dined. One thing we quickly learned is that you need a reservation for dinner at most restaurants at least 24 hours in advance, especially on weekends! Here are number of a favorite spots enjoy a meal or drink. 

Bakers and Roasters.   An amazing brunch spot with all types of eggs inspired by different cultures, several fruit dishes, vegetarian meals and strong coffee. We went for the banana nut French toast and eggs royal. 

Van Speyk.   A romantic brick walled restaurant with glittering chandeliers, Dutch classics and North Sea seafood.

Balthazars Keuken.   A tiny homestyle restaurant with a daily three course menu. Make a reservation! 

Cafe Restaurant Stork.   A waterfront restaurant within a warehouse style building serving a variety of seafood.

IJ Brewerey.   A brewery and beer garden located next to a 16th century windmill.

Pulitzer's Bar.   A dark and moody reading room-like lounge offering high end cocktails and small bites

Café ‘t Mandje.   A very eclectic and welcoming gay bar that’s been around since 1927. 

Venus & Adonis.   A cozy restaurant and cocktail bar specializing in craft gin & tonics 

Cafes

Before visiting Amsterdam, we read somewhere that the Dutch consume more coffee per person than any other country in the world. As avid coffee drinkers ourselves, we decided to visit a number of cafes while in town. Here are a few of our favorite spots to sip on a coffee at any time of day. 

Scandinavian Embassy.   Slow and drip brewed coffees with cinnamon rolls.

Trakteren.   A great spot for cappuccinos with cute latte art.

Lot Sixty One.   House roasted coffee and tasty sweets.

Koffieschenkerij.   A cafe located in the the historic sacristy of the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building, with a spacious outdoor cafe. 

Back to Black.   A corner cafe with a bohemian feel and an array of sweets. 

Quartier Putain.   A two level cafe located on the edge of the Red Light District.

Shopping & Markets

There are many opportunities to shop and visit markets in Amsterdam. The city is filled with small business and shops tucked into the first floors of the canal houses. Almost every neighborhood hosts its own market, whether it be mostly produce, clothes, antiques or a combination of them all. 

De 9 Straatjes.   This is probably one of our favorite areas to walk through. This district within the Canal Belt known for its picturesque streets lined with boutiques, design shops, concept stores and clothing retailers. We spent hours one afternoon walking from shop to shop, mostly looking, at all the pretty things in search of something affordable to bring home. 

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat.   A two block section of the street lined with antique shops and galleries. 

Ten Katemarkt.   An outdoor weekend market selling produce, cheeses, spices, breads, mushrooms, seafood, meats and street food located next to De Hallen, A large indoor food hall with a variety of Dutch and international cuisines, several bars offering local beers and artisan gin and tonics. 

Flea Market Ij-Hallen.   A large flea market with hundreds of booths scattered between two warehouses and an outdoor lot. It is a great places to buy vintage home goods, furniture, jewelry, clothing and misc items. The market is held on the second Saturday of every month. 

Waterlooplein Market.   A 300 booth vintage and flea market open from Monday - Saturday. The booths are filled with records, cameras, antiques and bohemian clothes. Several food carts serve Dutch favorites like stroopwafels, poffertjes, coffee and frites. 

Coffeshops.    Places that sell cannabis, edibles and space-cakes (cannabis infused desserts) They provide a place for people to enjoy them. Check out Boerejongens Coffeeshop Sloterdijk, a well reviewed coffeeshop located outside of the central neighborhoods and RLD. 

Getting Around

Getting around Amsterdam is one of the most enjoyable ways to explore and experience the city! There are countless options from bicycling, taking a canal tour, riding the tram or simply walking.  

Biking. The preferred method of transit. There are as many bikes as people in the city and a number of companies to rent from including: Ajax Bike, Yellow Bike and Mac Bike. Daily rentals range from €12 and €15, some rentals require a security deposit or minimal insurance fee incase of damage or theft. 

Public Transit. The most reliable and economical option to quickly cross the city. There are multiple options that let you ride the bus, tram and metro all in one. 

• GVB Transit Card. Unlimited transit at on buses, trams and metros for 96 hours for €22.50.

• GVB Transit Ticket. Individual 1 hour ticket for buses, trams and metros costs €3.20.

• Amsterdam Card. Unlimited transit at on buses, trams and metros, includes access to the museums and a canal cruise. The pass last for 72 hours and costs €84.

• Tickets can be purchased on any form of public transit (Pricing as of 2018)

Taxis and Ubers. The most expensive to get around the city. Luckily they’re almost unnecessary other than getting to/from the airport. They typically cost €45-€50 one way. 

Ferry to Amsterdam Noord. Crosses the IJ River from the port behind Central Station to ADAM Tower. The ferry is free and usually departs every 15 minutes.

Tips to keep in mind

• Be cautious riding bikes and watch out for cyclists when walking across streets.

• Be respectful and don’t take photos of sex-workers in the RLD. This is strictly enforced.

• Make reservations at restaurants you really want to eat at 24 hours in advance.

• Like many places in Europe, tipping more that 10% is not required.

• Avoid tourist traps near Dam Square and Central. Explore the inner canal rings and branch out further into the outer neighborhoods. 

If we had more time…

The Moco Museum.   Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art featuring a large collection of Banksy’s work, interactive and digital exhibits. 

The Heineken Experience.   Visit the Heineken Brewery, tour the facilities and cap our own bottle. 

Take a Day Trip.   With the countryside and multiple cities nearby: Utrecht, Rotterdam and The Hague. We recommend taking a day trip outside of Amsterdam if you have the time. 

Hotel Inntel Zaandam.   Spent a night at this uniquely designed hotel made to look like a stack of green country cottages typical of this area of the countryside.

Windmills.   Also in Zaandam, see the several preserved Dutch windmills.

Visit during the Summer.   Visit to the beach on Ijburg, kayak in the canals and participate in the Pride Festival.

Visit during the Winter.   Visit when the Keizersgracht freezes over and becomes an ice rink.

A Romantic Weekend in Paris

Paris, France

Paris, known as the City of Love, holds a special place in our hearts. It happens to be where we got engaged during a romantic weekend trip. Paris is an enchanting city to wander and do as Parisians do: sip on coffee at a sidewalk cafe, picnic along the banks of the Seine, admire the historic architecture and view some of the world’s most prominent artwork. While here, make an effort to speak a little French. It sounds romantic, even if you mispronounce every word. One phrase we can’t say enough is Je t'aime Paris.

Our Engagement

During our first night in Paris, we had a reservation at Les Ombres, a restaurant overlooking the Eiffel Tower. We started the night with wine on the terrace as our meals were being prepared. During dinner, we chatted about all the things we wanted to do and see during the long weekend. As we finished our meal, the sun had just set and a full moon was rising, when suddenly the Eiffel Tower began glittering in light. We picked up our glasses of wine and walked back out to the terrace for a better look. 

It was only us outside, overlooking the Parisian rooftops watching the Eiffel Tower shimmer. That’s when Devin said, I have a question for you. He started by saying, “almost 6 years together and 10 countries visited” while pulling out a box from his bag. He opened the box and inside was the grape soda pin from Pixar’s Up and a thin white gold ring. Almost unable to hold it together, he asked me to marry him!! After screaming YES several times, he slipped it onto my finger and pinned the badge onto my lapel. 

We called our waiter to take our photo then went back inside for celebratory Champagne and dessert before walking to the Eiffel Tower. We walked around the base of the tower, admiring it’s scale and structure from the ground before ascending to the first, second then third level at the top. The views from the top are absolutely stunning! We could see every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris. In addition to the view, there was a Champagne Bar serving flutes of French Rosé. Newly engaged, sipping on Champagne and overlooking Paris from the top of the Eiffel Tower is a fairy tale night we will never forget. 

Things To Do

Visit an Arcade.   Paris’ arcades are charming passages to discover and walk through. Most of them are home to a variety of shops, restaurants and cafes. 

• Galerie Vivienne.   One of Paris’s most iconic arcades, known for its elegant storefronts and mosaic tile floor.

• Les Passages Couverts.   A series of hidden shopping arcades in the 1st, 2nd and 8th Arrondissements.

• Passages des Panoramas.   Paris’ oldest arcade. It has retained its vintage charm for over 200 years.

Walk in Julia Child’s Foot Steps. If you admire Julia Child as much as us, visit some of her old haunts:

Les Deux Magots.   The cafe where Julia Child and her husband, Paul Child, often ate.

• E Dehellerin.   The 200 year old kitchen supply store where Julia Child used to shop for enamel, stainless and copper dishes.

• Rue Mouffetard.   One of the streets where Julia Child would shop for produce and meats.  

Dine at a Sidewalk Cafe.   Practically a French pastime, enjoy a croissant and coffee at a bistro table overlooking the street scene and passersby.

River Cruise. Take a Champagne Cruise along the Seine at sunset. It was super touristy with bus loads of people but we didn’t let it distract us from Paris’ charm. Book here through Bateaux Mouche. 

Shop at a Market.   Walk through the stalls or streets of an actual French market. 

• Marché de Enfants Rouge.  Paris’ oldest food market with a diversity stalls offering meals, fruits, veggies, cheese, meats and seafood. There are a number of tiny shops surrounding the market selling rustic and vintage items. 

• Rue Montorguiel.   Vibrant central street with food markets, boulangeries, fromageries, patisseries, old world bars, restaurants and cafes.

• Rue de Martyrs.   Located in the 9th & 18th Arrondissements, this street is a giant market avenue with over 200 shops, restaurants and boutiques selling pastries, chocolates, coffee, seafood, etc. 

Picnic. Pick up a baguette, some cheese, a bottle of wine and have a picnic. These are some great locations:

• The Seine.   The main river that passes through Paris. Find a shaded tree, a bench or simply dangle your legs over the edge and watch the boats float by.

• Parc des Buttes Chaumont.   A hilly & lush park in the 19th Arr. Stop by Rosa Bonheur for a glass of Rosé.

• Champ de Mars.   The park in front of the Eiffel Tower and perfect spot for picnicking. There are accordion players serenading couples and vendors selling roses and champagne.

Read French. Buy a book from one of these classic locations.

• The Bouquinistes.   Outdoor booksellers set up along the banks of the Seine.

• Shakespeare and Company.   One of the world’s most famous book stores, often seen in movies.

Visit the Sights

Arc de Triomphe. A Napoleonic War Monument along the Champs-Élysées. Climb the 284 interior spiral stairs to the rooftop for surrounding views of Paris.

Sainte-Chapelle. A 13th Century gothic chapel with stunning stained glass windows. 

Notre Dame. The Gothic cathedral known for its rose windows, buttresses & gargoyles. We visited months after the fire that nearly destroyed the landmark. Though it was under repair, it’s a sight that shouldn’t be missed.

The Eiffel Tower

You can’t visit Paris for the first time without going to the Eiffel Tower. It is the symbol of the city and one of the most recognizable sights in the world. 

The tower has three levels. The first two are accessible by stair and elevator. We took the elevator up and the stairs down, making for a leisurely descent, twisting and winding our way through one of the towers legs. Both floors have incredible views of the inner structure and iron lattices of the tower as well as a number of restaurants, shops and a Macaron Bar.

After wandering these floors we took the tiniest elevator to the third level, the top of the tower and highest point in the city. As mentioned earlier, the views from the top are absolutely stunning! On a clear night, you can see every amber glowing light and illuminated landmark in Paris. The top floor is home to Gustave Eiffel’s Laboratory and a Champagne Bar. 

Tickets to the tower have to be reserved for a specific time slot in advance, book here.

See Some Art

With a rich culture surrounding art and artists, Paris is the best place in the world to learn about art history and see some of the world’s masterpieces. 

Centre Pompidou. A contemporary art museum built “inside out” with all the building’s equipment and escalators exposed leaving more room for gallery space inside. 

Musee de’ L'Orangerie. An Impressionist art museum famous for it’s display of Monet’s Water Lilies.

The Louvre. The world’s most well known art museum, particularly for The Mona Lisa. The museum deserves a half to full day to explore but specific pieces can be seen in less time.

Street Art & Graffiti 

• Flamingo Wall. Search for the flamingo wall in Montmartre.

• Banksy. There are a dozen artworks painted throughout the city, multiple can be found in the Latin Quarter.

• I Love You Wall. A blue tiled wall with I love you written in 311 languages located in Montmartre.

Taste Everything!

To quote Julia Child, “People who love to eat are always the best people.” This could not be truer than with the French. Here are a some of our favorite restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries:

Les Ombres. A rooftop restaurant overlooking the Eiffel Tower serving modern French cuisine. The restaurant is enclosed in a fragmented glass structure inspired by the shadows of the tower. It’s also where we got engaged! 

Du Pain et des Idées. A famous bakery, known for their pistachio chocolate escargot (named for the pastry’s shell shaped swirl)

L’Escargot. Serving the their namesake since 1832, this restaurant is known for their Burgundy snails in the shell. The restaurant has an old world feel and is adorned with a giant gold snails. 

Brasserie Floderer. Classic French restaurant known for seafood, wine and ambiance.

Cafe Charlot. A small corner bistro with lovely sidewalk dining. It’s a great spot for breakfast or brunch.

Breizh Cafe. A crêperie known for their inventive crêpes and ciders.

Le Syndicat. A cocktail bar with drinks made from 100% French spirits, rated as one of the top 50 bars in the world.

Deviant. A tiny French kitchen serving serving seafood entrees with a large wine selection. The restaurant has a standing only bar inside and bistros on the sidewalk.

Arrondissements & Neighborhoods 

Paris is broken up into 20 Arrondissements. Starting in the center of the city and spiraling out like a snail shell. Different neighborhoods correspond too and overlap multiple Arrondissements.

Montmartre. Located in the 18th Arr. and known as the neighborhood on the hill. The area is popular for its Impressionist history, artists, nightlife, and charming houses. Nearby sights include the Moulin Rouge and Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur. The neighborhood is accessible via a funicular or a large set of steps. 

Le Marais. Located in the 4th Arr. This is oldest Parisian neighborhood and the center of the LGBTQ+ community. Known for its cobblestone streets, stately architecture, courtyards, cafes, cocktail bars and vintage shopping.

Latin Quarter. Located in the 5th Arr. A university neighborhood, this area of Paris is popular for its bars, cabarets and distance from large tourist attractions.

Saint Germain des Pres. Located in the 6th Arr. This neighborhood is home to many bookshops, galleries, cafes and design shops.

10th Arrondissement. A quiet neighborhood lining the Canal Saint Martin with plenty restaurants to eat at and street art to spot. We stayed here in an Airbnb that was once a bakery operated by nuns. 

2nd Arrondissement. Known for its arcades, boutiques, fine dining and cocktail bars. The neighborhood is worth wandering and getting lost in.

Getting Around 

On Foot. When we visited Paris, the city was in the middle of the largest transit strike in years. Trains, buses and all forms of public transit were shut down. As a result, we explored the city almost entirely on foot. 

By Taxi. When the distance was too far to walk, we requested Ubers and called taxis. To get across town, they were rarely more than $20. 

Airport Taxi. Taxis are the most direct way to leave/get to the airport but also the most expensive. You can expect to pay between €30 and €50 from either airport to get to the city center. 

French Words & Phrases 

Many people in Paris speak English however Parisians adore when foreigners try to speak French. Some of the most common words and phrases we used are: 

Bonjour = Hello or Good morning

Au revoir = Goodbye

Bonsoir = Good evening

Merci = Thank you

Merci beaucoup = Thank you very much

S’il vous plaît = Please

De Rien = You’re welcome

Excusez-moi = Excuse me

La carte, s’il vous plaît = The menu, please

L’addition s’il vous plaît = The check, please

Je voudrais… = I would like…

Je t'aime = I love you

Next time in Paris… 

A long weekend in Paris is great to see a number of the sights, neighborhoods and get a taste for the cuisine. We have a few ideas of what to do next time we’re back in Paris:

• Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. Paris’ most famous flea market for over 150 years with 3000+ merchants selling vintage items, antiques, artwork, books, furniture, etc.

• See More Art:

Musee d’ Orsay - Impressionist and art nouveau museum in a converted glass train station.

Musee Picasso - The largest collection of Picasso’s art in the world.

• Take a Day Trip:

Palace of Versailles - Spend a full day exploring the King Louis XIV’s famous palace and grounds.

Mont Saint Michel - Tour the medieval fortified city island surrounded by water during high tide located in Normandy, France.

Claude Monet Home - Visit the home where Monet painted many of his Impressionist works, including the famous Water Lillies.

• Take a French Baking class 

Le Cordon Bleu. 2 Day Traditional Bread Baking 

Du Pain et des Idées. 3 Day Baking Class 

New York City

Favorite Things in NYC

New York City is an ever-changing landscape of cultures, histories, movements, styles and cuisine. It is a worldly city, both glamorous and gritty filled with people from all walks of life. The city attracts dreamers and offers an endless supply of inspiration as well as its own challenges. Having lived here since early 2018, we’ve had the chance to explore and experience so much of what makes NYC unlike anywhere else. In no particular order, we’ve curated a list of sights worth visiting, hidden gems to appreciate, mouthwatering food to try and activities to do. 

Urban Hiking

One of the best ways to see the NYC is on foot. We often spend our weekends walking down avenues, across bridges and though Burroughs to explore the neighborhoods, discover new restaurants and see areas we would typically pass under while riding the subway. Get lost wandering, as Alicia Keys puts it, “these streets will make you feel brand new.”

Eat at an All Night Diner

NYC is known as the city that never sleeps. This couldn’t be truer than at an all night diner. Characterized by their run-on menus, cake displays and signed photos of celebrities mounted to the walls, these comforting places are waiting to welcome you at any hour of the day. 

Empire State Building

The Empire State Building is easily the most recognizable sight in NYC. It defines the skyline and offers 360 views of the surrounding metropolis. Visit the observatory and outdoor deck on the 82nd floor then spend the extra $20 to visit the very top, at the 102nd floor. Views from both floors are well worth experiencing during day and night. At night, the building is illuminated in white or themed colorful lights. Try to spot the white lights twinkling! Other special times to see the building illuminated is during Pride, New Years Eve and Valentines Day. 

Visit a Fortune Teller

Fortune Tellers are all over the city. For around $10, you can ask one look into the crystal ball or read your palm and predict your future. 

Bagel Crawl

Go on a Bagel Crawl. The city is dotted with delis, bakeries, bodegas and food carts offering these quintessentially NY treats. Order from one and split it amongst friends. After your first bagel, set out for your second, third, fourth and so on…enjoying the moments in-between bites to walk off a few carbs and see the city. There is an abundance of bagel shops throughout the Lower East Side. If you only have one bagel in NYC, make sure it’s a bagel with lox (cured salmon).

Central Park

Nestled within Manhattan’s grid of concrete and skyscrapers, is Central Park. The park acts as a retreat space for every New Yorker to escape the busy life of the city, spread out and re-connect with nature. These are our favorite reasons to visit the park: 

• Picnic! Gather some friends, bring a blanket, drinks, snacks and have a picnic. The park is filled with all types of lawns, fields and rock formations to choose from, finding a spot is never difficult to do. A few of our favorites are Umpire Rock, Sheep Meadow and Cedar Hill.

• The Lake. With so many scenic spots nearby, the lake is one of our favorite areas in all of NYC. From here, you can listen to opera singers perform at Bethesda Terrace, share a kiss on the Bow Bridge, row across The Lake and get lost in the winding trails within The Ramble. 

• The North Woods. Located in the northwest corner of the park between 100th & 110th streets, The North Woods is a vast section of the park with old trees, rolling hills and plenty of roads and trails to hike. 

Eat NY Style Pizza 

Grab a slice of New York style pizza. Characterized by its crispy thin crust and wide slices, it’s a staple of NYC cuisine. Look out for pizzerias with long counters lined with dozens of pizzas all sold by the slice. Many of these shops are open 24 hours and constantly crank out new pies ensuring a fresh and delicious slice at any time of day. The East Village hosts a large number of pizzerias. 

The Cast Iron District

Spend an afternoon strolling through the cobble stone streets of the Historic Cast Iron District in SoHo. Hundreds of ornately designed cast iron clad buildings define the neighborhood, many of which are now home to high end restaurants, residences, boutiques and nightlife.

Skyline Drive-In 

A drive-in theater along the East River in Greenpoint, Brooklyn paying new releases and classics. The parking lot has multiple screens overlooking the skyline playing different movies every night. If you don’t own a car (like us) the theater has a separate screen with lawn chairs set up to 

Speakeasies 

In a city where something new lingers around every corner, some of the best surprises remain truly hidden. A few of these hidden gems are speakeasies. Here are a few of our favorites and how to get in. 

• Please Don’t Tell. The entrance is located through a phone booth inside Crif Dogs on St. Marks Place. After 6pm, enter the phone booth, pick up the receiver and dial 1. The other side of the phone booth will open leading into the bar. The bar itself is known for it’s mixologists, often crafting custom cocktails to your taste. 

• Basement. Located in Chinatown down a flight of stairs on Mott St is a Coca Cola refrigerator door. Behind the door is a basement bar with a subtle carnival theme, emphasized by a self serve popcorn machine.

• Employees Only. The entrance, hidden behind the curtains of a fortune teller’s shop in Chelsea, leads to this classy cocktail bar. The speakeasy is known for its experimental drinks and prohibition era vibes. 

• Fig 19. A speakeasy in the Lower East Side disguised as a white box art gallery. Once inside, behind a hidden door is a cozy cocktail lounge. Friday nights can get surprisingly busy.

The High Line

Walk The High Line in Chelsea and Meatpacking. It’s an old rail line turned into an elevated park surrounded by contemporary architecture. It’s beautiful year round but our favorite time to visit is during autumn. Midway through, stop by Chelsea Market and eat your way through the food stands and restaurants.

Essex Market 

Recently relocated into a modern food hall and market, this is one of best places to shop for groceries or experience many of the different flavors that make up the city’s diverse cultural and food scene. The market carries everything from vegan cheeses, imported seafood, Puerto Rican coffee, Japanese groceries, NYC bagels, Norwegian salmon and African spices. 

French Row

Relatively located along West 4th Street between 7th & 8th Avenues are a number of incredible French restaurants. The French style bistros dotted between the be beautiful brick town homes and duplexes makes this area a relaxing place to stop for a meal and drinks. 

Roof Tops

New Yorkers flock to roof top bars for weekend brunch, evening drinks and city views. Here’s a shortlist of some of our favorites:

• Savanna Rooftop. Located adjacent to the Queensboro Bridge in Long Island City at the Z Hotel, this fully outdoor rooftop offers delicious small plates amazing drinks and unobstructed views of Manhattan.

• Last Light. Located on Bowery at the Sister City Hotel, this rooftop offers craft cocktails, chill vibes and near 360 city views.

• The Boom Boom Room. Located at the top of the Standard Hotel, this iconic and ultra glitzy spot embodies the glamour of NYC. Come for the high end cocktails, live music and make sure to check out the restrooms.

• The Broken Shaker. Located on the roof of the Freehand Hotel, this 70s style tiki themed rooftop features multiple bars, tropical drinks and tasty small plates.

• The MET Roof Garden Bar. Located on the rooftop of the MET, this seasonal bar features outdoor art installations, skyline views and overlooks the treetops of Central Park.

• Spyglass Rooftop. This intimate rooftop with some of the best views of the Empire State Building. As it’s name suggests, it even has a viewing periscope pointed directly at the building. 

Admire the Brownstones

Take the subway to Brooklyn to see New York’s historic Brownstones. These architectural beauties are scattered throughout the city with large concentrations in Bed Stuy and Park Slope. Characterized by their brown stone facade, elevated stoops and narrow width, these homes exude urban charm. 

Janes Carousel 

It’s not just for children, for $2, take a spin on Janes Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park. 

Smorgasburg 

Visit Prospect Park in Brooklyn for Smorgasburg. This reoccurring food festival is held every weekend and occupied with tents run by dozens of local vendors, restaurants and micro breweries. It’s a great spot to enjoy so many of the cuisines and cultures NYC is known for. There’s a smaller version of Smorgasburg held during the weekdays in Williamsburg at the East River Park.

Coney Island

This nostalgic and eccentric place is a usual highlight of our summer. We often spend the day here riding amusement park rides, walking the boardwalk, relaxing on the beach and eating fried foods. If you’re in NYC during mid June, make your way out to Coney Island to witness or participate in the Mermaid Parade. 

See Some Art

With renowned museums, countless galleries and entire streets covered in murals & graffiti, NYC is home to some of the best art in the world. 

• Museums. Visit the Guggenheim and experience the museum as it was intended. Take the elevator to the top floor then walk down the spiral ramp viewing the art as you descend. Other worth while museums are MoMA PS1, The Brooklyn Museum, the MET, the Whitney and MoMA. 

• Graffiti Walking Tour. There are numerous free and self guided walking tours across the city to see murals, street art and graffiti. Two of our favorites are the Bushwick Collective and the Coney Art Walls. 

• Gallery Hopping. Galleries are found everywhere in NYC, with a high concentration in Chelsea. Spend an afternoon hopping between galleries keeping an eye out for specialty pop-up galleries and exhibits.

Tawk like a New Yawker 

Easily recognizable, the New York accent comes from the mix of ethnicities, social groups and cultural influences. It’s known for its combination of excitement, hand gestures, attitude, unique phrases, cursing and drawn out words. When you’re here, it’s hard not to notice and even harder not to try speaking. 

Christopher Street Pier

A wonderful spot along the West Side Highway to layout or picnic with the gays after Sunday brunch or before late afternoon cocktails in Greenwich Village. 

Restaurant Row 

If you haven’t figured it out by now, you’ll soon realize that NYC is known for its food scene. With thousands of restaurants across the city, representing every cuisine, good food is never hard to find. A vibrant spot to enjoy a meal is Restaurant Row located on 46th St. between 8th & 9th Aves. Here you’ll find numerous restaurants, hole in the walls and an array of nightlife.

Roosevelt Island Tram

Ride the cable car connecting the Upper East Side to Roosevelt Island. The cable runs parallel to the Queensboro Bridge and can be ridden with the swipe of the same Metro Card used on subways and buses. 

Ride the Subway 

There’s hardly anything glamorous about riding the subway but it’s part of the NYC experience. Take the trains across town, look and listen for performers and don’t be afraid to ask strangers for directions. 

Directions to keep in mind: 

• Uptown = Central Park/Harlem

• Midtown = Times Square

• Downtown = World Trade Center

• Most trains pass through Times Square or Grand Central. From either, you can transfer almost anywhere. 

Grand Central Station

An icon of NYC and well worth the visit with plenty to do and see outside of your typical commute.

• Wander The Great Hall, admire the celestial ceiling and check time on the Connecticut Clock. 

• Try a seafood tower or whole lobster at the Oyster Bar.

• Whisper sweet nothings in the Whispering Hall. Outside of the Oyster Bar is a vaulted ceiling with columns at each corner. Stand diagonally across from another person speaking directly into the column. You’ll hear each other’s voice carry across the noisy hall’s ceiling.

• Drink a cocktail at The Apartment Bar, an old school NYC style speakeasy behind the restaurant on the south east corner of the great hall. 

• Shop for produce or souvenirs at the Grand Central Market. We usually grab specialty items from here on our way home; such as spices, seafood and Murray’s Cheese.

• Buy Churros from the Churro Lady. Make your way to the 7 train platform and buy a paper bag of fresh churros for a few dollars. They’re always a delicious treat!

Manhattanhenge

Manhattanhenge is a rare spectacle when the sun lines up precisely with Manhattan’s east/west street grid. During this time, the sun rises and sets within they city’s canyon of buildings.

East River Ferry

For an inexpensive way to see the city by water, buy a ticket and hop on the East River Ferry. Ferries operate between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens and The Bronx for less than $3 one way. There’s also a bar on board and an outdoor deck. It’s an easy way to enjoy the waterfront, see the skyline and get to Rockaway Beach.

Long Island City Waterfront

The LIC waterfront is one of the most photogenic locations in NYC. This stretch of park provides sweeping views of Manhattan, especially at sunset. The north end is home to the Pepsi Cola Sign, a favorite spot of ours to picnic during the summer. The south end is a favorite for its contemporary pathways and semi-private alcoves. In-between is Gantry Plaza, where dozens of food carts line up during the late afternoon. 

Both north and south ends have their own East River Ferry docks making them easily accessible. In addition, the neighborhood is only one subway station east of Grand Central via the 7 and one north of Brooklyn via the G. The surrounding neighborhood is home to several breweries, MoMA PS1 and a variety of restaurants and cafes. Try Sweet Chick for (veggie) chicken and waffles, Tournesol for southern French cuisine, Sweet Leaf for coffee or cocktails and Rockaway Brewery for beer. 

If you happen to be in NYC during the 4th of July, anywhere along the LIC waterfront is the best location to watch the fireworks! It gets crowded so arrive early and bring water. 

Plant District

Where the concrete jungle meets a leafy jungle. This district is located on 28th St between 6th & 7th Aves. Come here to stroll the street, walk through the shops and maybe haggle over a plant to bring home. 

Bryant Park

This urban oasis is magical spot to relax and admire the city. Find an open chair or green patch of grass, sit back and listen to the hum of everything happening around you. The park is a few blocks from the energy and lights in Times Square and adjacent to the quiet and calm found within main branch of the NY Public Library. Bryant Park also hosts events year round from group yoga classes, to a square dancing and a seasonal ice rink.

Play Chess in a Park 

Almost every park in the city has a series of tables with chess boards designed into their tops. Come prepared with your own pieces or test your skills playing against one of the professionals patiently awaiting their next opponent.

Order Street Food 

Some of the best meals we’ve had have come from unassuming street vendors. Whether it’s tacos, falafel, kimchi or pretzels, there’s likely a street cart or food truck selling it. 

Chinatown

Go to Chinatown for the food! This area of the city is packed with countless Chinese and Southeast Asian restaurants. Eat dumplings and buns, slurp on ramen, drink bubble tea and savor a purple yam ice-cream cone. The neighborhood is also known for its well priced grocery stores. If you’re cooking, buy live lobsters from one of the seafood markets, exotic fruits from a street vendor or hard to find ingredients lining shops’ shelves. Visit during Lunar New Year and participate in the neighborhoods festivities and traditions.

Little Italy

That's Amore! From pasta to pizza, visit Little Italy for authentic homestyle Italian cuisine. While looking for a place to eat, you can expect to be invited into every restaurant on the street by their respective hosts. No matter the choice, you can’t go wrong. For dessert, order a slice of tiramisu or a cannoli with espresso. If you happen to visit during September, go during the Feast of San Gennaro, the neighborhood’s yearly food festival and street fair. 

Union Square Market

Cook a meal using spoils from the farmer’s market in Union Square. Saturday is the best day to buy in season produce, artisanal bread, Brooklyn honey and other specialties from local and urban farmers.

TWA Terminal

If you find yourself at JFK, visit the TWA Terminal and Hotel. This Mid Century masterpiece is an iconic symbol of the golden age of flying. With numerous things to keep you occupied during a layover or night’s stay, it is a destination in itself. Order a drink in sunken lounge or outside in a converted airplane bar, enjoy fine dining at the Paris Cafe and watch airplanes take off from the hotel’s rooftop pool.